Personally, I love telephotos because of the unique effects you can’t get with any other lens: flattering compression that makes people look beautiful, and bokeh that melts away the background so the focus is all on your subject. They make people look their best — and they make mountains look massive.

But here’s the tradeoff: telephoto lenses are heavy, intimidating, and easy to misuse. In this guide, I’ll show you how to shoot with a telephoto lens and get professional results, whether you’re using an 85mm prime, a 70–200mm zoom, or a super telephoto like a 100–400mm.

Looking for gear? Check out my favorite telephoto lenses on Amazon:

Canon Telephoto Lens Favorites:

• Canon RF 85mm f/2
• Canon RF 135mm f/1.8
• Canon RF 70–200mm f/2.8
• Canon RF 70–200mm f/4
• Canon RF 100–400mm f/5.6–8 IS USM

Sony Telephoto Lens Favorites:

• Sony FE 85mm f/1.8
• Sony FE 135mm f/1.8 GM
• Sony FE 70–200mm f/2.8 GM OSS II
• Sony FE 70–200mm f/4 G OSS II
• Sony FE 100–400mm f/4.5–5.6 GM OSS
• Sigma 70–200mm f/2.8 DG DN OS Sports (E-Mount)
• Sigma 100–400mm f/5–6.3 DG DN OS Contemporary (E-Mount)
• Sigma 150–600mm f/5–6.3 DG DN OS Sports (E-Mount)
• Tamron 70–180mm f/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2

What is a Telephoto Lens?

Before we get into tips and techniques, let’s define what we mean by a telephoto lens. Not every long lens is the same, and understanding different focal lengths will help you choose the right tool for portraits, landscapes, or wildlife. Here’s a breakdown of what counts as telephoto and what makes these lenses so powerful.

A telephoto lens is typically defined as any lens with a focal length of 80mm or longer. This includes:

• Medium telephoto: 85mm–135mm (classic portrait range).
• Standard telephoto zooms: 70–200mm (versatile for portraits, weddings, events).
• Super telephoto: 300mm–600mm (wildlife, sports, astrophotography).

Telephotos provide a narrow field of view and magnify distant subjects, making them appear closer.

What does a telephoto lens do?

• Compression effect: makes distant background elements appear closer to your subject.
• Shallow depth of field: isolates your subject with beautiful background blur.
• Reach: lets you capture distant subjects without moving closer.

Why Telephoto Lenses are Special

So what makes telephoto lenses stand out from other focal lengths? Beyond just “zooming in,” they change the way your photos look and feel. From flattering compression to creamy background blur, here are the creative effects that make telephotos special.

Compression

Telephoto lenses flatten perspective. This is flattering in portraits (faces look proportional) and dramatic in landscapes (mountains appear stacked).

Background Blur (Bokeh)

Longer focal lengths + wide apertures = shallow depth of field. This produces creamy, cinematic bokeh that isolates your subject beautifully.

Reach

Telephoto lenses allow you to photograph wildlife, sports, or ceremonies from a distance without being intrusive, making them a great tool for various photography styles . At weddings, a 70–200mm lets me capture intimate vows without stepping into the aisle. In the mountains, nothing beats a telephoto for showing dramatic scale.

Downsides

Of course, no lens is perfect. Telephotos deliver incredible results, but they also come with tradeoffs. Before you invest in one, it’s important to know the challenges — from weight and cost to technique. Here are the most common downsides of telephoto lenses and how to work around them.

• Big and heavy.
• Can cause camera shake if shutter speed is too slow.
• Expensive at professional levels (70–200mm f/2.8 lenses often cost over $2,000).

Don’t let these challenges scare you off — every lens has tradeoffs, and the rewards of a telephoto far outweigh the inconveniences. With the right technique and a little practice, you’ll be amazed at the images you can create.

Types of Telephoto Lenses

Not all telephotos are created equal. Some are lightweight portrait primes, others are heavy-duty wildlife lenses. Knowing the differences will help you choose the right one for your style of photography. Here are the most popular types of telephoto lenses and what they’re best for.

85mm Primes

• Pros: Small, light, affordable. Ideal for portraits.
• Cons: Locked into one focal length.

My current favorite 85mm lens: Viltrox 85mm f/1.4 use code “bergreen5” for 5% off

Related – 85mm Lens Guide:

70–200mm Zooms

• The workhorse of many professional photographers.
• Pros: Versatile, sharp, covers portraits, events, and landscapes.
• Cons: Heavy, expensive.

My current favorite is the Sony 70-200mm f/4 G II.

To learn more about how to select the right equipment for your needs, see our criteria for choosing camera gear for beginners.

Related: Sony 70–200mm f/4 Review

100–400mm and Super Telephotos

• Designed for wildlife, sports, and astrophotography.
• Pros: Incredible reach, detail from far away.
• Cons: Heavier, slower in low light, pricier.

Check the price of the beloved Sony 100-400mm

Related: How to Shoot with a 100–400mm Lens

Macro & Specialty Telephotos

Some telephotos double as macro lenses (e.g., 100mm macro), allowing for impressive magnification and the ability to capture tiny details like rings, flowers, or insects. They combine compression with the ability to capture tiny details like rings, flowers, or insects.

Check the price on the older version from Sony or the new version from Sony.

Telephoto Lens Comparisons

Ever wonder what really changes between an 85mm prime and a 70–200mm zoom, or how a 100–400mm stacks up against a 70–200mm? Comparing focal lengths side by side is the best way to understand how each lens affects compression, background blur, and flexibility. Let’s look at some key comparisons.

85mm Prime vs 70–200mm Zoom

• 85mm: Lightweight, classic portrait lens, dreamy bokeh.
• 70–200mm: Adds flexibility — shoot wide group shots at 70mm or tight portraits at 200mm.

Telephoto vs Wide/Standard Lenses (35mm/50mm)

• Wide/Standard (35mm/50mm): Show subject + environment.
• Telephoto: Isolate your subject, simplify the frame, compress the background.

Related: How to Shoot with a Wide-Angle Lens:

Telephoto vs Super Telephoto (100–400mm)

• 70–200mm: Versatile, faster, better in low light.
• 100–400mm: More reach, ideal for wildlife/sports, but slower and heavier.

Tips for Shooting with a Telephoto Lens

Telephotos can be intimidating at first — they’re heavy, narrow your field of view, and magnify camera shake, especially with a long lens. But with the right techniques, they become one of the most rewarding tools in your bag. Here are my best tips for shooting confidently with a telephoto lens.

1. Use Compression to Your Advantage

One of the unique strengths of telephoto lenses is compression — the way they flatten perspective and bring background elements closer to your subject. This is flattering in portraits (faces look natural and proportional) and dramatic in landscapes (mountains look stacked together).

Step back from your subject, zoom in, and watch how the background shifts behind them. A 200mm lens can make even modest hills look massive.

2. Mind the Weight

Telephotos are heavy, especially zooms like the 70–200mm or a super-telephoto. Over long shoots, fatigue can affect your posture and your photos.

Use a monopod or tripod for stability, a camera strap for comfort, and a supportive backpack for travel. Even paying attention to your stance — feet shoulder-width apart, elbows tucked — can help steady your shots.

3. Play with Framing

Telephotos are fantastic for layering foreground and background blur. Shoot through flowers, branches, or even guests at a wedding to create cinematic frames around your subject. The lens will melt those elements beautifully, adding depth and context to your photo.

Move slightly left or right until you find a foreground element that adds interest without covering your subject.

4. Stay Aware of Light

The longer the lens, the faster your shutter speed needs to be to avoid blur. A good rule of thumb is 1/focal length (so 1/200s at 200mm). If the light is low, don’t be afraid to raise your ISO — it can help you achieve a sharp image with a little grain, which is far better than soft and blurry.

Avoid this mistake: Shooting at too slow a shutter speed is the #1 reason telephoto shots end up unusable.

5. Track Action

For sports and wildlife, telephotos are your best friend. But they also narrow your field of view, which makes it easy to lose fast-moving subjects.

Switch to continuous autofocus (AF-C), use burst mode, and anticipate where the action will happen. Practice panning with your subject to keep them sharp against a blurred background.

6. Watch Your Backgrounds

Because telephotos compress everything, they can also magnify distractions. A stray sign, a bright shirt, or a cluttered horizon will feel even stronger when pulled in by the lens. Always scan your background before you press the shutter.

8. Experiment with Aperture

While telephotos are known for shallow depth of field, you don’t always need to shoot wide open. Try stopping down to f/4 or f/5.6 for sharper edges in portraits, or f/8–f/11 for layered landscapes. Aperture choice completely changes the look of your telephoto shots.

9. Embrace “Beautiful” Lens Flare

While many photographers try to avoid flare, certain telephotos create really beautiful flare patterns when shooting into the light. A low sun behind your subject can produce golden haze, rainbow streaks, or a soft glow that adds atmosphere.

Remove the lens hood and position the sun just at the edge of your frame. Test different apertures — wide open gives a dreamy glow, while stopped down can create more distinct starbursts.

I love pointing my 70–200mm toward the setting sun and watching as the glass catches beautiful sunset light. The results added mood and atmosphere that editing alone couldn’t replicate. Telephoto flare feels different from wide-angle flare because of the narrower field of view; it can look more concentrated and cinematic.

Bonus: Image Stabilization

Many modern telephotos have stabilization (VR, IS, OSS, depending on the brand). Turn it on when shooting handheld at slower shutter speeds. Just remember to turn it off on a tripod to avoid micro-vibrations. Lenses with vibration reduction / image stabilization suppress shake, especially at longer focal lengths.

Common Mistakes with Telephoto Lenses

• Using too slow a shutter speed → results in soft, blurry images.
• Standing too close for portraits → causes unflattering distortion.
• Forgetting about the background → compression makes distractions stronger.
• Not stabilizing → magnified shake ruins sharpness.
• Over-relying on Zoom → sometimes moving your feet gives a better composition.

FAQs about Telephoto Lenses

Telephoto lenses raise a lot of questions — from how far they can zoom for sporting events to which aperture works best. Below, I’ve answered some of the most common telephoto questions so you’ll feel prepared before you buy or shoot with one.

What does a telephoto lens do?
It magnifies distant subjects, compresses backgrounds, and isolates your subject with shallow depth of field.

What’s the difference between a telephoto and a zoom lens?

• Telephoto = focal length category (85mm+).
• Zoom = variable focal length (can be wide, telephoto, or both).
  A telephoto zoom lens is a zoom that covers telephoto ranges (like 70–200mm).

Is 70–300mm a telephoto lens?
Yes, it’s a telephoto zoom lens covering medium to super telephoto.

How far can a telephoto lens zoom?
Depends on the lens. A 300mm can frame wildlife from ~100+ yards away. A 600mm can fill the frame with a bird perched on a distant tree.

Is a telephoto lens worth it?
Yes — if you shoot portraits, wildlife, sports, or weddings. They’re less useful for casual everyday shooting.

How do I get sharp photos with a telephoto lens?

• Use a shutter speed of at least 1/focal length.
• Use a tripod or stabilization when possible.
• Anticipate motion and focus continuously for action shots.

What aperture for a telephoto lens?

• f/2.8 = best for portraits and low light.
• f/4 = lighter and cheaper option.
• Stop down (f/8–f/11) for landscapes to keep more in focus.

What are two disadvantages of telephoto lenses?
Weight and size, plus higher cost.

Why does every photographer need a 70–200mm?
It’s versatile, covers portraits, events, sports, and landscapes. Many call it part of the “Holy Trinity” of zoom lenses (16–35, 24–70, 70–200).

When should you use a telephoto lens?

• Portraits: flattering compression.
• Weddings/events: capture details without being intrusive.
• Wildlife/sports: shoot from a distance.
• Landscapes: compress mountains or create layers.

Can you use a telephoto lens for landscapes?
Yes! While wide-angles are more common, telephotos can create dramatic landscape images by compressing distant mountains into layers or isolating a single peak from the background. A medium telephoto like a 70–200mm or super telephoto like a 100–400mm is perfect for this style of shooting.

Is a 50mm lens a telephoto lens?
No. A 50mm lens is considered a “normal” lens because its field of view closely matches human vision. Telephoto lenses typically start at 80–85mm and go up from there.

Do telephoto lenses work for video?
Yes — telephoto lenses are fantastic for cinematic close-ups, interviews, or capturing wildlife and sports footage from a distance. Just keep in mind they magnify camera shake, so stabilization (in-body, in-lens, or on a tripod/monopod) is especially important.

What is the best focal length for portraits?
Many photographers prefer 85mm–135mm for portraits because of the flattering compression and smooth background blur. These focal lengths make faces look natural and avoid distortion.

Can I use a telephoto lens indoors?
It depends on the space. In large indoor venues like gyms, arenas, or churches, a telephoto is great for sports and events. In smaller spaces, however, the narrow field of view can be limiting. A faster aperture (f/2.8 or wider) also helps in low light.

Are telephoto lenses good for beginners?
They can be! An 85mm prime is lightweight, affordable, and easy to use for portraits. Zooms like a 70–300mm are also beginner-friendly, offering versatility without the high price tag of pro lenses.

Do telephoto lenses require more light?
Generally, yes. Because of their longer focal lengths, telephotos need faster shutter speeds to avoid blur, which means you’ll often raise ISO or shoot with wider apertures. That’s why pro telephotos (like 70–200mm f/2.8) are so valuable in low light.

What’s the difference between a telephoto zoom and a prime?
A telephoto prime has one fixed focal length, like 85mm or 135mm. A telephoto zoom, like 70–200mm, covers a range. Primes are usually lighter, sharper, and have wider apertures, while zooms are more flexible but heavier.

Telephoto Lens Guide Conclusion

Telephoto lenses are some of the most powerful creative tools a photographer can own. They let you capture flattering portraits, pull in distant wildlife, and compress vast landscapes into dramatic layers. Yes, they’re heavy, expensive, and demand good technique to ensure a sharp image in various situations — but the results are worth it.

If you’re just starting out, an affordable 85mm prime is a fantastic way to explore the world of telephoto photography without the weight or cost. If you need versatility, a 70–200mm zoom is hard to beat — it’s the workhorse lens for portraits, weddings, events, and even landscapes. And for those chasing wildlife, sports, or astrophotography, a 100–400mm or longer super telephoto opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

Best telephoto lens for:

• Beginners: Start with an 85mm prime.
• Versatility: Invest in a 70–200mm zoom.
• Wildlife/Sports: Go for a 100–400mm super telephoto.

Like any tool, the key is learning how to use your telephoto lens well. Master shutter speed to avoid blur, embrace compression to add drama, and don’t be afraid to experiment with foreground framing or even creative flare. The more you practice, the more you’ll see that telephotos aren’t just about “zooming in” — they’re about telling stories in a way no other lens can.

At the end of the day, the best telephoto lens is the one you’ll actually carry, practice with, and grow into. Whether you’re shooting portraits in your backyard or wildlife on a mountaintop, learning to harness a telephoto lens will expand not just your reach, but also your creativity as a photographer.

Grab a lens and start experimenting:

So grab your telephoto lens, get outside, and start experimenting. Whether you’re shooting landscape photography or weddings, you’ll be amazed at how much a telephoto can transform your photography.

Shop my recommended telephoto lenses for your camera in the links above
Explore my related guides:

• 85mm Lenses: Everything You Need to Know
• Sony 70–200mm f/4 Review
• 35mm vs 50mm Lens Comparison
• How to Shoot with a 100–400mm Lens

And don’t miss my YouTube series for hands-on demonstrations with every focal length.

At the end of the day, the best telephoto lens is the one you’ll actually carry and learn to use well.

The post How to Shoot with a Telephoto Lens: Complete Guide appeared first on .

But here’s the payoff: when you get it right, wide-angles deliver some of the most dramatic and rewarding shots you can take, giving you a sweeping view of the scene. , allowing you to create depth in your images. In this guide, I’ll explain:

• What wide-angle lenses are.
• Why they’re useful for landscapes, architecture, travel, and more.
• The pros, cons, and common mistakes.
• How to choose between zooms and primes.
• Practical tips for shooting with confidence.

Looking for gear? Check out my favorite wide-angle lenses on Amazon:

Sony:

• Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM: Buy on Amazon

• Sigma 16-28mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon

• Rokinon 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 35mm f/1.4: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 16mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 20mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

Canon:

• Canon 15-35mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 15-30mm f/4.5-6.3: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 16-28mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon
• Canon 14-35mm f/4: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 35mm f/1.4: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 16mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon

What is a Wide-Angle Lens?

A wide-angle lens is generally defined as any lens with a focal length of 35mm or shorter (on a full-frame camera). That includes:

• Standard wide-angle: 24mm–35mm.
• Ultra wide-angle: 14mm–20mm.
• Wide zooms: 16–35mm, 18–55mm, 10–18mm (APS-C).
• Fish eye: <14mm – gives a distorted view, bending the edges

These lenses capture more of the scene in a single frame, which makes them perfect for landscape photography, architecture, interiors, and tight spaces.

On APS-C cameras, you’ll need something like a 10–18mm lens to achieve the same field of view as a 16–35mm on full-frame. Micro Four Thirds shooters would be looking at lenses in the 7–14mm range for that classic wide look.

Is a 50mm lens a wide angle?

No. A 50mm is considered a normal lens because it closely matches the field of view of the human eye. (although some say they see more like a 35mm lens)

Is 35mm considered a wide angle?

Yes — 35mm sits at the edge of the wide category. It feels natural and storytelling-driven, which is why it’s popular for weddings and everyday photography. Many photojournalists swear by this focal length.

Is 24mm a wide-angle lens?

Yes. 24mm is a classic wide-angle that feels immersive without being overly distorted.

Is 18–55mm a wide-angle lens?

Yes and no. The 18mm end is wide on a crop sensor (equivalent to ~28mm). The longer end (55mm) is closer to a short telephoto. That’s why 18–55mm kit lenses are considered versatile beginner lenses.

Why Use a Wide-Angle Lens?

So why reach for a wide-angle lens instead of sticking with a standard or telephoto? Wide-angle lenses give you creative options that no other lens can match, especially when it comes to emphasizing foreground elements. They let you capture sweeping landscapes, fit an entire scene into the frame, and exaggerate perspective in a way that makes photos feel dramatic and immersive. Whether you’re shooting mountains, architecture, or storytelling portraits, a wide-angle lens helps you place your subject in context and create images that pull the viewer right into the moment.

Storytelling

When we shoot adventure sessions, we use wide-angle lenses to include not just the people but the towering cliffs or sweeping valleys around them. It’s not just a portrait — it’s a portrait in context. That’s what makes wide-angle lenses so powerful for photographing people: they tell the story of both the subject and the environment.

Motion and Energy Captured

Because wide-angle lenses exaggerate perspective, they’re also amazing for action and sports. Think of a mountain biker tearing down a trail, shot low and close with a 16mm — the rider feels larger than life, the trail stretches into the distance, and the energy is amplified.

Capture Expansive Backgrounds

Wide lenses let you include more of the scene, which is why they’re staples in a landscape photographer’s camera bag. Think sweeping vistas, dramatic skies, or the Milky Way stretching across the frame.

Work in Tight Spaces

In weddings, real estate, or travel markets, you often don’t have room to step back. A 16–35mm zoom can fit an entire group into a small room or capture the whole dance floor in one wide-angle shot.

Exaggerate Perspective

Wide-angle lenses emphasize depth. Foreground objects look larger, background elements shrink, and lines converge to create an immersive effect. A small rock in the foreground can look massive, pulling viewers right into the scene.

Create Experiential Photos

Wide shots tell a story by showing both the subject and their environment. Instead of isolating your subject, you include context — making the viewer feel like they’re there.

Downsides of Wide-Angle Lenses

Every strength of a wide-angle is also its weakness. That exaggerated perspective makes for drama, but it can also make your subject look like they have giant hands if you’re not careful. The cluttered compositions? They force you to slow down and think — and that’s not a bad thing. Wide angles demand intention, which is why they’re such a good teacher.

• Distortion: Barrel distortion makes straight lines bow outward. Faces near the edge of the frame can look stretched.
• Cluttered compositions: With so much in the frame, photos can feel busy if not composed carefully.
• Converging lines: Tall buildings or vertical lines may lean inward unless you keep the camera level.
• Lens flare & vignetting: Wide lenses expose more glass to the sun, increasing flare. Corners may darken (vignette), especially at wider apertures.

That’s why shooting with a wide is less about “blur away the background” and more about composing intentionally.

Types of Wide-Angle Lenses

Not all wide-angle lenses are created equal. Some are versatile zooms you can take anywhere, while others are fast primes designed for low light or storytelling. And then there are ultra-wides that push perspective to the extreme. Understanding the differences will help you choose the lens that best matches your style of photography — whether you’re shooting landscapes, weddings, travel, or astrophotography.

Wide-Angle Zooms (15–35mm, 18–55mm)

• Pros: Versatile, flexible zoom range, perfect for landscapes and travel.
• Cons: Larger, heavier, often slower (f/4 vs f/2.8).
• Best for: travel and landscapes when you want a versatile lens that can handle different scenes.

Our 16–35mm has been our favorite lens for weddings, adventure shoots, and landscapes. It’s a true workhorse.

Shop 16–35mm zooms on Amazon:

Sony:

• Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM II: Buy on Amazon

• Sigma 16-28mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon

Canon:

• Canon 15-35mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 15-30mm f/4.5-6.3: Buy on Amazon

• Canon 16-28mm f/2.8: Buy on Amazon
• Canon 14-35mm f/4: Buy on Amazon

Wide-Angle Primes (24mm, 28mm, 35mm)

1. 24mm: Immersive, low-light friendly (f/1.4, f/1.8 options). Great for travel & street photography.
2. 28mm: Slightly tighter, balanced for storytelling.
3. 35mm: Wide but natural, avoids extreme distortion. A wedding and everyday classic.

Ideal for: low light, storytelling portraits, and everyday shooting. Smaller, lighter, and sharper.

Ultra-Wide (14mm–20mm)

• Pros: Dramatic landscapes, astrophotography, interiors.
• Cons: Harder to master, more distortion, exaggerated edges.
• Example: A 14mm lens can capture the entire Milky Way band in one frame.
• Perfect for: dramatic landscapes, astrophotography, and interiors where you need maximum coverage.

Wide-Angle Lens Comparisons

One of the biggest challenges with wide-angle lenses is choosing the right focal length. A 16mm shot feels completely different from a 24mm or 35mm, and each one tells a different story. To help you see the differences, here are some side-by-side comparisons of popular wide focal lengths and how they affect perspective, distortion, and storytelling.

16mm vs 24mm

• 16mm: Exaggerated perspective, extreme foreground size, dramatic depth.
• 24mm: Still immersive, but more controlled and natural-looking.

Watch my How to Shoot with a 24mm Lens guide.

24mm vs 35mm

• 24mm: Big environment, immersive.
• 35mm: Calmer, storytelling, great for portraits and weddings.

Related: How to Shoot with a 35mm Lens:

35mm vs 50mm

• 35mm: Context + subject.
• 50mm: Isolates subject, less environment, stronger separation.

Related: 50mm Lens Guide, 35mm vs 50mm lens comparison.

Wide Zoom vs Wide Primes

• Zooms: Flexible, one-lens solution, great for travel.
• Primes: Sharper, faster (f/1.4, f/1.8), lighter.

Wide vs 24–70mm

• 16–35mm exaggerates perspective in ways the 24–70mm doesn’t.
• 24–70mm covers wider focal lengths and mid-range, making it versatile.

Related: How to Shoot with a 24–70mm Lens:

Wide vs Telephoto

• Wide: Subject + environment, immersive storytelling.
• Telephoto: Subject isolation, compression.
• Both are creative tools — use each intentionally.

Tips for Shooting with a Wide-Angle Lens

Wide-angle lenses are powerful tools, but they can also be unforgiving. The difference between a flat, cluttered shot and an immersive, dramatic photo often comes down to technique. Over the years, I’ve learned that small adjustments in how you compose, where you stand, and what you include in the frame can make a huge difference. Below are my best practical tips for getting the most out of your wide-angle lens — the kind of advice that will help you avoid common mistakes and start creating photos that feel intentional and immersive, allowing you to take full advantage of your wide-angle lens.

1. Watch Your Edges

Distortion is strongest near the edges. Keep people closer to the center and use edges for scenery or lines.

2. Keep Horizons Straight

A slight tilt makes buildings or mountains look like they’re falling. Use a tripod, level, or gridlines.

3. Get Close

Step toward your subject to emphasize foreground objects. Then, a small flower can look huge when you’re close at 16mm.

4. Use Leading Lines

Roads, rivers, fences, or trails guide the eye. Wide lenses make these lines more dramatic.

5. Think in Layers

Strong foreground + subject + background = immersive depth. This is the #1 difference between flat wide shots and engaging ones.

Bonus: Use Filters & Lens Hoods

• Polarizers cut glare in landscapes.
• Graduated ND filters help balance skies.
• Lens hoods reduce flare.

Shop filters:

What NOT to Do: → Don’t just stand back and shoot wide. You’ll end up with tiny subjects lost in a big empty frame. Move closer, exaggerate the foreground, and give your photo structure.

FAQs about Wide-Angle Lenses

Wide-angle lenses open up a world of creative possibilities — but they also raise a lot of questions, especially if you’re just starting out. From choosing the right focal length to figuring out how to avoid distortion, there’s a lot to learn. Below, I’ve answered some of the most common questions I hear about wide-angle lenses to help you shoot with more confidence.

Conclusion

In conclusion, wide-angle lenses are immersive, dramatic, and powerful — but they also magnify your mistakes. With the right framing, composition, and awareness, they can create some of the most rewarding photos you’ll ever take.

Also, wide-angle lenses will expose every mistake you make, but that’s exactly why they help you grow as a photographer. They force you to slow down, think about composition, and use the entire frame. Once you learn how to control distortion and embrace perspective, you’ll find they’re not just lenses for landscapes — they’re storytelling tools that can transform the way you see.

• Landscapes → 16–35mm or 24mm.
• Weddings & storytelling → 35mm.
• Astro → 14–20mm ultra-wide.

This post is part of my How to Shoot series. To keep learning, check out:

• How to Shoot with a 35mm Lens
• How to Shoot with a 24–70mm Lens
• Battle of the Wide Primes: 24mm vs 28mm vs 35mm
• The Best 85 mm Lens for Stunning Portraits and Versatile Photography

Shop my recommended wide-angle lenses using the affiliates above.
Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more lens tutorials.

At the end of the day, the best wide-angle lens is the one you know how to use well.

The post How to Shoot with a Wide-Angle Lens: Complete Guide appeared first on .

Is your kit lens holding you back, or is it just misunderstood? Most photographers will tell you to ditch it right away — and honestly, it’s advice I often give. But before you upgrade, you need to know how to squeeze the most out of it, when it’s time to move on, and how to choose the right upgrade.

In this blog post, we’re going to dive into everything about a kit lens and photography. What is it, how do we use it, and how do you know when it’s time to upgrade? I’ll also give you a clear path to which upgrades are worth the money.

Looking for gear? Here are some of my favorite affordable primes and zoom lenses to upgrade to after selling your kit lens:

Canon:

Sony:

• 35mm f/1.8 – A versatile prime, very budget friendly
• 50mm f/1.8 – Budget friendly, there are other choices if you want more quality
• 20-70mm f/4 – A great travel lens, or get a 24-70mm f/2.8 for better low light

Nikon:

• 35mm f/1.8 – Versatile prime lens, great quality!
• 50mm f/1.8 – Another great option for a nifty fifty from Nikon
• 24-70mm f/2.8 – A relatively affordable option for Nikon

What is a Kit Lens?

A kit lens is the standard zoom lens bundled with most entry-level cameras. The most common examples are:

• 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6 on crop sensor DSLRs and mirrorless cameras.
• 24–105mm f/3.5–5.6 on many full-frame cameras.
• 16–50mm collapsible zooms on cameras like the Sony A6000 series.
• 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 is Sony’s affordable, versatile kit lens

These lenses are compact, lightweight, and versatile — designed to give beginners a taste of wide-angle, mid-range, and short telephoto focal lengths in one affordable package.

Why is it called a “kit” lens?

It comes as part of the “camera kit” when you buy a new camera body. Not all kit lenses are bad but the really cheap ones that come with the less expensive cameras. If the camera body isn’t much cheaper than the camera body and lens, it’s probably a cheap kit lens

Is the 18–55mm a kit lens?

Yes. It’s the classic entry-level kit lens included with many Canon, Nikon, and even some Sony cameras.

What does a kit lens do?

• Covers wide to short telephoto in one lens.
• Let’s beginners experiment with composition and focal length.
• Provides enough versatility for landscapes, portraits, travel, and everyday photos. Albeit, not exceptional quality in any one category.

Why the Kit Lens Matters

Kit lenses are often dismissed, but they play an important role in a photographer’s journey:

• They’re teachers. A kit lens lets you discover whether you prefer shooting wide landscapes, mid-range street photos, or tighter portraits.
• They’re versatile. One lens can cover family gatherings, travel adventures, and even some beginner sports or wildlife shots.
• They’re affordable. Bundled with a camera, they cost almost nothing extra.

Related: Understanding and Choosing Camera Lenses

But let’s be honest — they’re limited. Most kit lenses have:

• Variable maximum apertures (f/3.5–5.6) → poor in low light.
• Cheaper build materials → less durable.
• Average sharpness compared to primes or pro zooms.
• Slower autofocus, making them harder for action.

Kit Lens Comparisons

Kit Lens vs. 50mm Prime

• Kit lens @ 50mm f/5.6: adequate, but struggles in low light.
• 50mm f/1.8 prime: sharp, creamy background blur, 3+ stops more light.

Related: 50mm Lens Guide

If you want better portraits and low-light performance, the 50mm prime is the classic first upgrade for a beginning photographer.

Kit Lens vs. 35mm Prime

• Kit lens @ 35mm f/4–5.6: works, but busy backgrounds.
• 35mm prime (f/1.8 or f/2): storytelling perspective with shallow depth of field.

Related: How to Shoot with a 35mm Lens

Great for street photography, travel, or weddings where you want both subject and context.

Kit Lens vs. 24–70mm f/2.8 Pro Zoom

• Kit lens 18–55mm or 28-70mm f/3.5–5.6: lightweight, but slow in low light.
• 24–70mm f/2.8: sharper, faster, built for professionals.

Related: How to Shoot with a 24–70mm Lens

The pro zoom is expensive, but it can replace the kit lens entirely for serious photographers.

Studio Testing: Kit Lens Scenarios

In controlled tests, kit lenses reveal both strengths and weaknesses:

• Bright light: At f/8, many kit lenses are surprisingly sharp — great for outdoor portraits or landscapes.
• Low light: They struggle — you’ll often push ISO higher or accept motion blur.
• Action: Slower autofocus makes sports and wildlife difficult.
• Depth of field: Even at maximum zoom, you won’t get dramatic bokeh due to the narrow aperture.

Tips for Shooting with a Kit Lens

1. Use Good Light

Kit lenses struggle indoors and at night. Shoot outdoors, near windows, or add artificial lighting.

2. Stabilize Your Shots

Use a tripod, lean against walls, or enable image stabilization. Slower shutter speeds are common with kit lenses.

3. Stop Down for Sharpness

Most kit lenses are sharpest at f/8–f/11. Avoid shooting wide open if sharpness is your priority.

4. Be Intentional with Composition

Since you can’t blur backgrounds easily, use leading lines, framing, and clean backdrops to make subjects stand out.

5. Explore the Zoom Range

Shoot wide landscapes at 18mm, or portraits at 55mm. Notice which focal length you love most — that tells you what to upgrade to next to capture great photos.

Related: Travel Photography Gear List

When to Upgrade Your Kit Lens

You should upgrade when:

• You want blurred backgrounds (bokeh) for portraits.
• You need better low-light performance.
• You’re printing large or shooting professionally and need sharper optics.
• Autofocus is too slow for your style.

The Problem With Variable Maximum Apertures on Kit Lenses

One of the most frustrating parts of kit lenses is their variable maximum aperture. We rented one from Lens Rentals to get real-world examples, and having not shot with a kit lens in a while, it reminded me just how limiting this can be. As you zoom in, the aperture shifts — your exposure changes — and shooting with full manual control becomes a constant juggling act. It feels like you’re reworking your settings every time you move.

What is a Variable Maximum Aperture?
Many kit lenses are labeled something like 18–55mm f/3.5–5.6. This means at 18mm, the lens can open up to f/3.5. But by the time you zoom to 55mm, the widest it can go is f/5.6. In practice, that means your exposure darkens as you zoom, and you have to adjust your shutter speed, ISO, or both to compensate.

This is one of the main reasons many photographers eventually upgrade. Faster primes and pro zooms maintain a constant maximum aperture, making shooting in low light and achieving shallow depth of field much easier. If you find yourself frustrated by these constant exposure shifts, that’s usually the clearest sign you’re ready for better glass — and that’s when photography starts to feel both easier and more creative.

Budget-Friendly Upgrade Paths

• 50mm f/1.8 prime ($150–$200) → affordable, great for portraits.
• 35mm prime → versatile storytelling lens.
• 85mm prime → flattering portraits, bokeh.

Professional Upgrade Paths

• 24–70mm f/2.8 zoom → replaces the kit lens entirely.
• Holy Trinity of Zooms: 16–35mm, 24–70mm, 70–200mm.

FAQs about Kit Lenses

What is a kit lens?
A bundled zoom lens, usually 18–55mm or 24–105mm.

Is a kit lens good enough?
Yes, for beginners. It’s versatile, lightweight, and affordable. But you’ll quickly hit its limits in low-light situations or professional work.

How to tell if a lens is a kit lens?
If it came bundled with your camera body and has a variable aperture like f/3.5–5.6, it’s likely a kit lens.

What are the disadvantages of a kit lens?
Cheaper build, slower autofocus, limited low-light performance, less sharp than primes.

Is the Sony 18–135mm a kit lens?
Yes — it’s offered as a kit with some Sony APS-C bodies. It has more range but has the frustrating variable aperture of other kit lenses.

Is the Sony 16–50mm worth it?
It’s compact and useful for travel, but limited in sharpness and aperture.

What’s the difference between a kit lens and a prime lens?

• Kit lens: variable zoom, versatile, lower image quality.
• Prime lens: fixed focal length, sharper, faster aperture.

What is the best kit lens for beginners?
The Canon 18–55mm, Nikon 18–55mm, Sony 16–50mm, and Fuji 18–55mm f/2.8–4 are common choices. However, Fuji’s is widely praised for quality.

Conclusion

The kit lens is a great teacher. It’s versatile, lightweight, and affordable — but it has limits. Once you know what frustrates you most — low light, sharpness, or depth of field — that’s your clue it’s time to upgrade for amazing photos .

• Beginners: start with your kit, then add a 50mm prime for portraits or low light.
• Storytellers: consider a 35mm prime.
• Professionals: invest in a 24–70mm f/2.8 or build out the Holy Trinity: 16-35mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm.

Shop my recommended kit lens upgrades. (affiliate link)
Check out related guides:

• 50mm Lens Guide
• How to Shoot with a 35mm Lens
• How to Shoot with a 24–70mm Lens

At the end of the day, the best lens is the one that makes you want to get out and shoot.

The post How to Shoot with a Kit Lens (and When to Upgrade) appeared first on .

In this article, I’ll break down why this lens might just be the ultimate adventure photography lens, how to compose with it, when to zoom, and my best real-world tips for capturing bold, immersive shots outdoors.

Affiliate Note: Some links below are affiliate links. If you buy through them, it helps support our work at no extra cost to you.

What Is a Wide-Angle Lens?

A wide-angle lens has a shorter focal length than standard lenses, usually 35mm or below on a full-frame camera. This allows it to capture a wider field of view, exaggerate the relative size of nearby objects, and create a sense of depth.

• Wide-angle: typically 24–35mm.
• Ultra wide-angle lenses: 14–24mm.
• Fish-eye lenses: even wider, but highly distorted.

For adventure photography, wide angles are prized for showing sweeping landscapes, dramatic skies, and storytelling compositions where the subject is part of a larger scene.

Related gear: Shop Wide Angle Lenses for Canon, Sony, Nikon

Why the 16–35mm Is My Favorite Adventure Lens

I’ll admit it: choosing a favorite lens feels impossible. But if you twisted my arm, I’d pick the 16–35mm.

Wide-angle lenses like this capture not only the vast scale of the landscape but also the experience of being there. They let you photograph every step, every breath, and every awe-struck moment in a way that feels immersive.

When I first fell in love with photography (and with Marc, my husband and co-photographer), the challenge was always how to capture what our adventures felt like. The 16–35mm gave me that ability.

This lens is perfect for:

• Epic landscapes – mountains, valleys, coastlines.
• Storytelling scenes – a hiker dwarfed by cliffs, a tent glowing under the Milky Way.
• Tight spaces – inside vans, tents, or slot canyons.

And the zoom range is incredibly practical: 16mm for sweeping vistas, 35mm for more natural perspectives without swapping lenses.

Shop 16–35mm lenses on Amazon:

Composition Tips for Wide-Angle Adventure Shots

Wide-angle photography is powerful, but it’s not foolproof. It can overwhelm your frame if you don’t compose intentionally. The reward? When you get it right, you invite your viewer into the scene.

Here are my go-to techniques:

1. Use Foreground Elements

Foreground anchors the scene. Think rocks, trails, puddles, or gear. By crouching low, you make small details feel huge, creating depth and scale.

2. Lead With Lines

Rivers, ridgelines, or roads are natural leading lines. With a wide-angle lens, these lines become dramatic pathways that pull the eye into the frame.

3. Frame Within a Frame

Use trees, cave openings, windows, or even your tent door to frame your subject. It gives direction and structure to wide, sprawling scenes.

4. Embrace Negative Space

Wide lenses tempt us to “fit it all in,” but sometimes the most powerful photo is one with less. Let open skies or empty landscapes speak to the grandeur of the place.

5. Watch the Distortion

At 16mm, straight lines bend and faces stretch. Keep horizons and people away from the edges unless you want that warped look.

6. Place Your Subject Thoughtfully

If landscapes come naturally to you, imagine the perfect scene first—then place your subject where they complete the story. If storytelling is your strength, place your subject first and adjust your perspective to balance the landscape.

When to Use 16mm vs. 35mm

The magic of the 16–35mm is versatility. But when should you go wide versus tighter?

• Stay at 16mm:
• To exaggerate scale and make mountains feel massive.
• In cramped spaces (tents, vans, caves).
• For sweeping skies at sunrise or sunset.
• To exaggerate scale and make mountains feel massive.
• In cramped spaces (tents, vans, caves).
• For sweeping skies at sunrise or sunset.
• Zoom to 35mm:
• To reduce clutter in busy backgrounds.
• For a more natural human perspective.
• When you want your subject (like a climber or hiker) to take center stage.
• To reduce clutter in busy backgrounds.
• For a more natural human perspective.
• When you want your subject (like a climber or hiker) to take center stage.

Compare 16–35mm lenses for Sony here

Wide-Angle vs. Telephoto Lenses

Both wide-angle and telephoto lenses are essential in photography, but they tell different stories.

• Wide-angle lens: exaggerates depth, includes foreground objects, and immerses the viewer in the scene.
• Telephoto lens: compresses distance, isolates subjects, and is great for portraits or wildlife.

For adventure photography, wide-angle is often better for storytelling, while telephoto is useful when you can’t physically get close or want to compress the background.

Tip: A good camera bag makes it easier to carry both when needed.

Adventure Shooting Tips with a 16–35mm Lens

Beyond composition, here’s a bit about how to make this lens shine on real adventures:

1. Travel Light – One lens replaces many, saving weight on long hikes.
2. Go Handheld – The wide focal length forgives motion blur, so you can shoot on the go.
3. Embrace Movement – Dust, snow, wind, or water spray look more dramatic with a wide-angle.
4. Get Close – Don’t just zoom. Physically step closer to your subject for immersive shots.
5. Watch the Light – Lens flare can add fun, creative effects, but it can also overwhelm your image. Experiment with both.

Lighting and Perspective

Wide-angle photography is especially sensitive to light. A mediocre scene becomes magical in golden hour.

• Chase golden light – Sunrise and sunset stretch shadows and add color.
• Experiment with tilt – Point the camera slightly up for sky drama or down for textured trails.
• Balance the frame – Use visual weight (mountains, trees, or people) to prevent the landscape from overpowering your subject.

Why the 16–35mm Belongs in Every Adventure Photographer’s Bag

The 16–35mm lens is lightweight, versatile, and one of the best for creating depth and telling stories. It’s my favorite lens for travel photography and landscapes because it balances technical flexibility with creative freedom.

Check current prices of the 16–35mm lens options on Amazon:

Conclusion: Stretch Your Vision

Photography isn’t just about taking photos—it’s about perspective. The 16–35mm lens reminds us that awe isn’t in the subject but in how we see.

Wide angles invite us to notice foreground elements, play with lines and shapes, and look at the world from a unique perspective.

If you want your adventure photos to feel immersive, powerful, and full of story, the 16–35mm wide-angle lens is a game-changer.

Next up: Check out more from my How to Shoot Series for lens-specific tips and real-world advice.

FAQs on Shooting Adventure Photography with a 16–35mm Lens

What is a 16–35mm lens good for?
A 16–35mm wide-angle zoom lens is ideal for landscape photography, travel photography, and adventure photography. At 16mm, you can capture sweeping vistas with an exaggerated sense of depth. At 35mm, you get a more natural look that’s perfect for photographing people without too much distortion.

Is a 35mm lens good for travel photography?
Yes, the 35mm focal length is one of the most versatile for travel. It captures context while still being flattering for portraits.

What is a 35mm lens good for?
On a full-frame camera, 35mm is excellent for street photography, environmental portraits, and travel scenes that balance subject and background.

How far should you stand back for portraits on a 35mm lens?
On a full frame, 3–6 feet is ideal. This avoids too much distortion in facial features while keeping the background visible.

What is a 16mm lens good for?
A 16mm ultra wide is great for dramatic skies, interiors, and astrophotography. It emphasizes foreground elements and creates an exaggerated sense of depth.

When should you not use a wide-angle lens?
Avoid using it for close-up portraits (distorts facial features) or architecture without correction (bent lines).

Is 40mm wide enough for travel?
Yes, but it’s tighter than 35mm. It works for most situations but won’t feel as expansive.

Is 35mm or 50mm better for travel?
35mm is better for storytelling and landscapes. 50mm is better for portraits and isolating subjects.

What lens is best for Machu Picchu?
A 16–35mm wide-angle is perfect for both landscapes and storytelling shots, pushing you out of your comfort zone .

What are the four guidelines to using a wide-angle lens effectively?

1. Use foreground objects for depth.
2. Lead with lines.
3. Be intentional with your focal point.
4. Control distortion.

What are the downsides of wide-angle lenses?

• Too much distortion on edges.
• Subjects can get lost.
• Hard to simplify busy scenes.

How to take good pictures with an ultra-wide-angle lens?
Get close, use leading lines, frame carefully, and embrace negative space.

What is the best f-stop for a wide-angle lens?
f/8–f/11 for landscapes, f/2.8 for low light or astro.

Is 16–35 a wide lens?
Yes, it’s considered wide to ultra-wide on a full-frame camera.

Is 16–35mm full-frame?
Yes. Designed for full-frame cameras, but works on cropped sensor cameras with a crop factor applied, making it more like a 24-50 on an APS-C camera.

What is the difference between a telephoto lens and a wide-angle lens?
Telephoto compresses distance, wide-angle exaggerates it. Both create different perspectives.

What is the advantage of a wide-angle lens?
It creates depth, captures expansive scenes, and gives photos a unique perspective.

What does a wide-angle photo look like?
It often includes a dramatic foreground, a wide scene, and a sense of space that feels immersive.

What is an adventure photographer?
An adventure photographer captures the story of outdoor exploration—hiking, climbing, skiing—using tools like wide-angle lenses to share scale, energy, and emotion.

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a husband-and-wife photography team based in Evergreen, Colorado. On our blog, we share gear tips, creative insights, and lessons from over a decade of shooting professionally. Dive into our favorite guides, from drone photography accessories to ND filters, or learn how to shoot with your favorite focal length.

Curious how 35mm and 50mm lenses compare? We’ve got you covered there too. We also offer free resources to help photographers thrive—whether you’re building a creative business or just trying to figure out what gear you really need. Download our Free Creative Business Guide or our Money + Gear Guide for Photographers to get started.

Got questions? Contact us—we’re always happy to help. And just so you know, some product links are affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission (at no cost to you) if you make a purchase through them. It’s a great way to support the blog, and we only recommend gear we love.

The post How to Shoot Adventure Photography with a 16–35mm Wide-Angle Lens appeared first on .

There’s a reason the 50mm lens is one of the most popular lenses of all time. It’s versatile, affordable, lightweight, and downright magical when you know how to use it. This is why this lens has earned the nickname “nifty fifty.”

Whether you’re just starting out in photography or you’ve been at it for a while, the 50mm deserves a spot in your bag, and this post will show you why. The 50mm is a must-have whether you’re shooting portraits, travel, weddings, or just everyday life. I’ve used 50mm lenses for weddings, travel, portraits, adventure work, commercial photography, and even video work.

In this post, I’ll break down everything I’ve learned so you can decide if it’s right for you, and which version to buy. You’ll learn everything you need to know about the 50mm lens: what makes it special, how it compares to 35mm and 85mm lenses, and my gear recommendations to help you decide which version is best for your camera and shooting style.

*this video says 55 but that is just because Sony makes a nice 55mm lens and it’s basically the same as a 50mm.

What Is a 50mm Lens?

A 50mm lens refers to its focal length, 50 millimeters. On a full-frame camera, this closely mimics the natural field of view of the human eye, making it feel intuitive to shoot with. That’s part of its charm: what you see is what you get. Some people say they see more like a 35mm so it’s a bit of a personal preference but 50mm is a great lens regardless.

On a crop sensor (APS-C), a 50mm lens acts more like a 75–80mm, which gives you more reach and a tighter frame, great for portraits. Alternatively, you can use a 35mm lens on APS-C sensor cameras and it acts similarly to a 50mm. You may notice a slight difference in the distortion of the images but it’s slight.

Having to do equivalent focal length math and having to think about distortion is often why I encourage people to get a full frame camera. They are now affordable enough that you can get one as your first camera without breaking the bank.

50mm lenses are prime lenses, meaning they have a fixed focal length. This simplicity comes with some big benefits: they’re often sharper, faster (wider apertures), and smaller than zooms. These lenses often open up to their maximum aperture of f/1.8, f/1.4, or even f/1.2, which gives you more creative control over depth of field and lets in much more light – great if you’re shooting at night.

If you’re new to the term, “prime” simply means you can’t zoom in or out, you have to physically move to reframe your shot. That might sound limiting, but most photographers find it liberating – except when you are photographing rock climbing

Why Photographers Love the 50mm Lens

Let’s talk about why the 50mm has become such a fan favorite:

• Natural Perspective – It’s incredibly easy to compose with because it closely resembles the way we see the world. Images feel true-to-life and engaging.
• Low-Light Performance – With apertures like f/1.8, f/1.4, or even f/1.2, you can shoot in dim conditions without cranking your ISO. It’s one of the best low-light performers in any kit.
• Lightweight and Discreet – The 50mm is small and easy to carry, making it perfect for travel or documentary-style work. It’s also less intimidating when photographing people.
• Budget-Friendly – Every camera brand makes a 50mm f/1.8, and they’re usually the cheapest way to get a fast lens with shallow depth of field. It’s often a photographer’s first upgrade from a kit lens.
• Beautiful Bokeh – That dreamy, blurry background? The 50mm gives you that, especially at wider apertures. Perfect for portraits and artistic shots.

In short, it’s the lens that helps you do more with less.

Best Uses for a 50mm Lens

In this section, we’re going to talk about the top uses for the 50mm focal length. This lens is great for everything from portrait photography to landscape photography. And as I already mentioned, since it’s inexpensive compared to other lenses, it’s great for beginner photographers.

Which doesn’t mean you won’t still find it in the camera bag of a seasoned pro. It’s a great focal length when you can only take one lens or when you find yourself relying on your other lenses too much and are looking for some focal length variety.

With its compact size, there’s always enough room to bring this focal length in your bag for portrait sessions or travel. Here’s where the 50mm really shines:

Portraits with the 50mm Lens

Whether you’re shooting couples, families, or headshots, the 50mm gives your portrait photography a flattering look without being too zoomed in on the subject. You can still include some background, but keep your subject front and center. It works well both outdoors and in natural light setups indoors.

You’ll want to be aware of the depth of the field of this lens. Apertures wider than f/5.6 are often not suitable for group shots with the 50mm lens, and you might want a wider lens for that use. However, for many, the 50 is the sweet spot between wide enough to capture everything without introducing distortion.

Your subject will love how they look when you shoot them with the 50, as it’s similar to how most people see the world. It’s not as “flattering” or slimming as the popular portrait lens, the 85mm, but the 50 is still an excellent choice.

Weddings with the 50mm Lens

It’s one of my go-to lenses for wedding photography, especially for prep shots, details, and candid moments. It’s fast, quiet, and versatile. You can move from capturing rings and florals to emotional moments without switching lenses.

In tight spaces, the 50mm might not be as flexible as the 35mm. But when we’re able to do group shots outside, it’s a fantastic choice because it is versatile. While many wedding photographers shoot with a 35mm and 85mm, I find that there are times when I turn to my 50 because the 35 is too wide or the 85 is too tight.

Especially for beginning wedding photographers, this lens is a great alternative to a kit lens for shooting weddings because it’s affordable. The important thing to remember is that your vision is what helps you tell the story, not your focal length. But if you want help choosing the right focal length, that’s what I’m here to do!

Travel with the 50mm Lens

You don’t want to lug around heavy gear when exploring a new city. A full-frame 50mm gives you stunning results in a tiny package. It also helps you blend in—people often don’t even realize you’re taking their photo. It’s the perfect walkaround lens for both urban and rural adventures.

This lens is lightweight, affordable, and versatile, all the things I’m looking for in glass that I’m going to bring on a trip. You might care more about focal length variety and lean towards a zoom lens, but sometimes the constraint of a fixed focal length helps your creativity. You can use the 50 to capture details, landscapes, people, and all the things that you love about your travel.

There aren’t many situations where you can’t make a great photo with this focal length. It’s a friendly perspective that lends itself to many beautiful compositions. Where does it struggle? You might want compression of a longer focal length, or the immersive feel of something wider to capture a vast scene.

Street Photography with the 50mm Lens

The discreet nature of the 50mm makes it perfect for capturing real life without drawing attention. You’ll look less like a pro with a giant lens and more like a curious observer, which helps people act naturally. Many photographers find the 50mm lens too tight for street photography and prefer the 35mm, but you’ll have to try it for yourself and decide.

Most of the street photography I shoot is more like travel photography, as I discussed above. Most people have strong opinions when it comes to their specialty, so I’ll defer to street photographers for what’s most important. But for my uses, the 50 works great!

Indoor Photography with the 50mm Lens

The 50, especially with a low aperture, is a great choice for indoor photography. It performs well in low light and doesn’t distort people or architectural features. With a wide aperture, you can shoot indoors without a flash. In confined spaces, you might have trouble fitting everything into the frame, but it works for larger rooms.

This lens is great for lifestyle sessions or documenting everyday life. Whether you’re capturing a quiet morning at home or a cozy dinner gathering, the 50mm delivers. There are some limitations, for example, shooting group portraits may require more space when using a 50mm lens indoors.

I show a lot of this in my YouTube video about the 50mm lens if you want to see how I use it on real shoots.

50mm vs. 35mm vs. 85mm: How Do They Compare?

Let’s talk about how the 50mm compares to other popular mid-range focal lengths. I’ve talked before about how each of these lenses tells a story a little differently.

35mm

The 35mm is well known for environmental portraits, street photography, and capturing the full scene. Due to its wider field of view, it allows you to capture more of the background and context, which is ideal for travel and lifestyle work. There is a potential for distortion when your subject is close to the lens.

50mm

The 50mm falls right in the middle and is great for general-purpose, portraits, and events. This lens gives a natural perspective and is very balanced, versatile, and natural. It may require cropping for tighter shots or stepping back for wider shots but it isolates the subject a bit without losing the connection to the environment.

85mm

The 85mm is known for close-up portraits because of the beautiful compression. It’s considered very flattering for faces due to the compression, but since it’s tighter, it’s less versatile and requires more space to be able to shoot. The 85mm gives that classic headshot look, with smooth bokeh and subject separation.

Each lens has its strengths, but the 50mm stands out for its adaptability across various scenarios. If you’re trying to decide which to get, the 50mm is often the best starting point. It forces you to move your feet and learn composition, but isn’t so wide that it distorts faces or scenes.

Which 50mm Lens Should You Buy?

Nearly every camera brand has a version of the 50mm. Some even have three or four!

The 50mm focal length works well for both full-frame and crop-frame cameras. When using a crop sensor camera, a 50mm lens behaves like a 75mm lens, which may require you to back up to fit subjects in the frame.

Here’s a quick breakdown by brand:

Canon (RF and EF Mounts)

• Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 STM – Great mirrorless nifty fifty – inexpensive and good quality
• Canon RF 50mm f/1.4 – Great high quality option, cheaper than the f/1.2
• Canon RF 50mm f/1.2L – Top-tier glass with gorgeous rendering, and pro-level performance.
• Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM – Classic nifty fifty for DSLR users on a budget.

The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens produces sharp images when shot wide open. The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens is particularly praised for its build quality and value as an entry-level option. Photographers find that the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM lens captures stunning images in low light situations due to its wide aperture. It will feel very exciting, especially if it’s your first prime lens after using a kit lens with a minimum aperture of f/4 or higher.

Nikon (Z and F mount)

• Nikon Z 50mm f/1.8 S – One of the sharpest 50mm lenses out there.
• Nikon Z 50mm f/1.4 – faster but actually cheaper than the f/1.8 above
• Nikon Z 50mm f/1.2 – a massive lens but very fast and top quality
• Nikon 50mm f/1.4G – Older DSLR lens, still solid for portrait work.

Sony (E Mount – full Frame)

• Sony 50mm f/1.4 – Great quality option that is cheaper than the f/1.2 version
• Sony 50mm f/1.2 GM – Premium Lens with beautiful bokeh, fast AF, and top performance.
• Sony 55mm f/1.8 – My current choice – good quality, good price: especially used
• Sony 50mm f/1.8 – Budget-friendly and small. Some quality concerns but good enough for some
• Samyang 50mm f/1.4 – Another good value option with fast aperture – sometimes out of stock – also available under the brand name Rokinon

Fujifilm (APS-C)

• Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 – Equivalent to a 50mm on crop, legendary lens known for its character.
• Fujifilm XF 33mm f/1.4 – A modern take with faster autofocus and clinical sharpness.

Panasonic/Olympus (Micro Four Thirds)

• Olympus 25mm f/1.8 – Compact and capable.
• Panasonic Leica 25mm f/1.4 – A bit pricier but optically excellent with lovely rendering.

Also consider third-party lenses from Sigma, Tamron, and Viltrox—they often offer great performance at lower prices. Sigma’s Art series, in particular, has earned praise for sharpness and build quality.

Shooting Tips for the 50mm

If you’re new to primes or used to zooms, the 50mm can feel limiting at first. Here are some tips to get the most out of it:

Move your feet

Want to zoom in? Step closer. Need a wider scene? Step back. It’ll improve your composition skills to learn to zoom with your feet.

This is why a fixed focal length is such a great tool for your creativity. Learning not to settle for your first shot, but move around and find a better composition. Keep learning and keep growing.

Shoot something wide or close, near or far, and explore the variety you can create with this lens. You can also use the 50mm to get pretty close and shoot details. The minimum focusing distance for a 50mm lens is about 45 cm, which limits how close you can get to your subject.

Shoot wide open for Bokeh!

Try f/1.8 or f/1.4 for that dreamy depth of field. Just be careful with your focus—it’s razor thin! For group shots with a 50mm lens, it’s best to set the aperture between f/5.6 to f/8 for greater depth of field.

But if you have one subject, use that low aperture to your advantage. This is why I encourage photographers to learn to shoot in manual. So that you’re intentional about the settings you choose to use rather than just snapping a picture.

I love that the 50 provides a wider angle than the 85mm while still providing that shallow depth of field. Depth creates dimension in your photos. Use it! Another note on settings, using a shutter speed of at least 1/100 second is advisable when shooting with a 50mm lens to avoid motion blur.

Watch your edges for sharp images

At wider apertures, keep your subject centered for best sharpness. Some lenses get a little softer at the corners. While you’re not worried about distortion with this lens like you would be with a wider lens, it’s good to be aware of the limitations of your lenses.

Use backlight

The 50mm handles flare well, and backlighting can create a magical glow. It’s perfect for golden hour or indoor window light. I love shooting backlight as long as I’m careful to ensure my images are still sharp.

I find that the backlight is more beautiful at 50 and longer than it is with a wider lens.

Focus on details

Even though it’s not macro, you can get surprisingly close. Try photographing textures, hands, or small scenes with intention. Using a 50mm lens forces you to think more about composition and focus on arranging elements within the frame.

When shooting in close on stationary subjects, you’ll want to consider using manual focus. Manual focus is a great option when you’re too close for autofocus. The more you practice with it, the more second nature it becomes. Make sure to turn on focus peaking if your camera has it – subjects in focus will display with a color overlay indication.

Final Thoughts on the 50mm Lens

The 50mm lens isn’t just a beginner’s lens—it’s a forever lens. I still reach for mine regularly, even with a bag full of pro gear. It’s a reminder that photography doesn’t have to be complicated. Sometimes, all you need is one great lens, a reliable camera, and your creative eye.

If you want something that’s sharp, light, budget-friendly, and incredibly versatile, the nifty fifty might just be your new favorite lens.

Got questions? Drop them in the comments or check out the video below for more real-world shooting with a 50mm!

Similar Content on the Blog

Looking for longer focal lengths for your full-frame cameras? We have content on some of the ideal focal lengths for every scenario. Learn everything you need to know about the 85mm focal length. And check out this 35mm to 50mm comparison.

On the blog find everything you need to know about drone photography, a comparison of mirrorless and DSLRs, our best gear for night photography, or our favorite Peak Design backpacks.

• Travel Photography Gear List and Tips
• 35mm Lens Guide
• 85mm Lens Guide
• Adventure Photography Gear Guide

• Photography Tips for Mountain Landscapes

• Tips for Outdoor Wedding Photographers

• Photography Portfolio Creation

• Travel Photography Gear

• Wedding Settings Guide

• Wedding Photography Tips for Beginners

• Minimalist Wedding Photography Gear

• What is the Rule of Thirds

• Adventure Photographer Gear

• ND Filter Beginners Guide

• Wedding Album Review

Have questions? Reach out, we’re here to help!

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a husband-and-wife photography team based in Evergreen, Colorado. On our blog, we share gear tips, creative insights, and lessons from over a decade of shooting professionally. Dive into our favorite guides, from drone photography accessories to ND filters, or learn how to shoot with your favorite focal length.

Curious how 35mm and 50mm lenses compare? We’ve got you covered there too. We also offer free resources to help photographers thrive—whether you’re building a creative business or just trying to figure out what gear you really need. Download our Creative Business Guide or our Money + Gear Guide for Photographers to get started.

Got questions? Contact us—we’re always happy to help. And just so you know, some product links are affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission (at no cost to you) if you make a purchase through them. It’s a great way to support the blog and we only recommend gear we actually use and love.

The post 50mm Lens Guide: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on .

Or you’re wondering about how to shoot portraits in tight spaces, or where you can show more of the person’s body. Maybe you aren’t loyal to any particular focal length but just want to learn about a great lens to help you capture portraits.

35mm Lens Portrait Photography

We’ve all heard it:
“The 85mm is the portrait lens.”
And honestly? It’s not wrong.
There’s something timeless about that creamy background blur and flattering compression captured by a camera .

But if you’re here for connection, for feeling—not just for flattering headshots—then I want to introduce you to the lens that changed everything for me:

The 35mm.

This lens might just shift how you photograph people—and how you see them too. Because 35mm portraits?
They breathe.
They move.
And they feel real.

Why the 35mm Lens Deserves a Spot in Your Portrait Kit

At first, I avoided it. I didn’t want to get too close, disrupt a moment, or introduce distortion. I was clinging to the idea that portraits needed to be clean, polished, and flattering in a traditional sense.

But then I realized:

“Flattering” doesn’t always mean perfect. Sometimes it means honest.
Sometimes it means being vulnerable.
And sometimes, it means stepping into the story instead of shooting from the outside.

That’s the 35mm difference.

Unlike longer lenses that compress and isolate, the 35mm connects. It brings your subject into their environment—and your viewer into the moment.

It’s Not Just About the Person.

It’s About the World Around Them.

Think:

• A mother in her messy kitchen.
• A couple dwarfed by the mountains.
• A child bathed in golden-hour light on their favorite couch.

The 35mm helps you tell those stories. The ones with mood, meaning, and movement.

How 35mm Compares to Other Portrait Lenses

Let’s break down how the 35mm lens compares to other focal lengths. The 35mm is one of my favorite prime lenses. It’s a wider lens, considered wide-angle even though it’s not as wide as something like a 16mm or 24mm lens.

With a wide focal length, there are going to be pros and cons, so as you read through this comparison, you can determine your priority. Are you focused on background separation? Do you want more bokeh and less distortion?

85mm lens: Classic and flattering

The 85mm is known for how it can highlight facial features and get creamy bokeh with a shallow depth of field. The 85mm lens tends to minimize context around a subject, making them stand out more. I also love it for compression, the effect of pulling the background closer. The 85mm focal length is also often favored for headshots due to its ability to create a professional look.

50mm lens: Blanced and versatile

With the 50mm lens, you can capture both the person and a hint of their world. The 50mm lens allows for close proximity to subjects, which can be important for comfortable photography. The background doesn’t get pulled closer when using a 50mm lens like it does with the 85mm.

However, you can achieve that shallow depth of field. And the 50mm lens is commonly recommended as a first lens investment due to its versatility for portraits.

35mm: Story-driven, immersive

The 35mm hits a sweet spot, allowing you to include environment and emotion in the same frame. It’s wide enough to pull in context but tight enough to keep your subject grounded. Using a 35mm lens will include more context in portraits compared to 50mm or 85mm lenses.

The natural field of view created by a 35mm lens results in a more realistic perspective without significant distortion. However, if you’re using a 35mm lens for head-and-shoulders portraits, you’ll have to get very close to the subject, which could lead to perspective distortion, especially of the nose and head proportions. Regardless, the 35mm lens also appears to be popular among aspiring photographers for its similarity in perspective to the default lens of a smartphone.

28mm or 24mm: Wide and dramatic prime lenses

Wider lenses like the 28mm and 24mm show scale, movement, and dynamic composition (great for groups/adventure.) Wider lenses will distort an image, especially elements close to the edges of a composition. To avoid perspective distortion in portraits, photographers should maintain a greater distance from their subjects when using wide-angle lenses.

5 Tips for Shooting Portraits with a 35mm Lens

Next up, let’s walk through how to shoot portrait photography with your 35mm. As I mentioned, you’ll likely be creating environmental portraits rather than the more traditional look that you might get with the 50mm and 85mm. However, shooting portraits with the 35mm focal length might change how you shoot with other focal lengths as well.

1. Get Close

Yep. Closer than feels comfortable.
This is the opposite of a zoom lens mentality—connection comes from proximity.
Closeness = intimacy = impact.

Portraits taken with a 35mm lens have a level of intimacy because the photographer can be close enough to converse with the subject. Carrying a small lens like a 35mm, helps photographers connect more easily with subjects without a big lens between them, leading to more natural photographs.

2. Watch Your Edges

Distortion is real—but not always bad.
Keep faces and features toward the center to avoid warping, or use the edges creatively for drama. Just be intentional.

Using a 35mm lens for close-up portraits can lead to distortion, making certain parts of the subject look larger or unflattering when too close. Photographing with a 35mm lens is best done from a distance to avoid distortion effects but close up to get the intimacy. This requires you to carefully manage your distance.

3. Play With Depth

Foreground, middle ground, background. Use them all.
A plant in the foreground, your subject mid-frame, glowing light behind? That’s visual storytelling.

4. See the Light

You can’t hide the background like you can with a tighter lens, so light becomes your best friend.
Golden hour, window light, soft shade—let light shape the mood.

5. Use It for Variety

Portraits. Candid moments. Lifestyle sessions. Street. Branding. Travel.
The 35mm works across genres and often surprises you with its versatility.

35mm lens portrait photography might just broaden your creative range not just your focal range.

When to Use the 35mm for Portraits

• Family Sessions – Snuggles, chaos, and life in motion.
• Travel & Adventure – Tell a full story, not just a silhouette.
• Couples & Lifestyle – Keep it natural. Let the moment lead.
• Street Photography – Capture people and their place in the world.
• Creative & Branding – Artists in their studios. Makers in their element.

Even styled shoots gain a documentary edge when shot with a 35.

The Real Reason I Love the 35mm for Portraits

It’s not just the look.
It’s the feel.

It invites you in. It helps you immerse, engage, and connect.
And it made me a better photographer—not because I nailed my angles, but because I started shooting more honestly.

I used to think flattering meant slim and sharp.
Now I think it means true and present.

That’s what the 35mm gives you.

And like I said, it might even inspire you to shoot an environmental portrait of your subject with your 85mm lens. Let using a new lens change how you capture images with a longer focal length too.

Best 35mm Portrait Lenses and Where to Buy

Looking to add a 35mm lens to your kit? Here are some top options for photo or video lenses. Most of these are prime lenses for a full frame camera but I’ll include one of my favorite zooms as well. For those of you shooting with different camera bodies, feel free to reach out if you want my suggestions.

• Sony Options (mirrorless Sony FE Mount):

• Rokinon 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 35mm f/1.4 GM: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Samyang 35mm f/1.4: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM: Buy on Amazon

• Canon Options (Mirrorless RF Mount and DSLR FE Mount):
• Canon RF 35mm f/1.4 (for Mirrorless): Buy on Amazon

• Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L II USM (for DSLR): Buy on Amazon

• Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art (for DSLR): Buy on Amazon

• Nikon Options (Mirrorless Z Mount and DSLR Mount):

• Nikon 35mm f/1.4 Z (for mirrorless): Buy on Amazon

• Nikon 35mm f/1.4 (for DSLR): Buy on Amazon

Ready to Try 35mm Lens Portrait Photography?

Grab your 35mm lens. Take a walk. Photograph someone just as they are.
Let the surroundings breathe. Let the light guide you.
And let the imperfections in.

Want more help learning this focal length? Check out my How to Shoot with a 35mm Lens video next. Or my blog post that contains everything you need to know about the 35mm lens.

And if you’re curious how the 35mm stacks up directly against the 50mm or 85mm, let me know in the comments—I’d love to break it down.

Until then,
Keep creating with intention.
And let your photos tell the full story.

Similar Content on the Blog

Looking for more photography tips? Check out these posts on Photography Basics:

• How to Shoot Candids
• Get Sharp Photos Every Time
• How to Shoot in Manual Mode
• Focal Length Explained
• Camera Settings Guide
• ND Filters
• 35mm and 50mm Lens Comparison

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a photography team based in Evergreen, Colorado. On the blog, we share practical photography tips and gear reviews, especially for those just starting out with taking pictures.

Don’t hesitate to contact us and let us know how we can help! If we link to a product we love, Amazon links and others are affiliate links; it’s a great way to support our ad-free blog.

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Over the past few seasons, I’ve tested dozens of filming techniques, accessories, and mounts across the GoPro Hero 10, 11, 12—and now the GoPro Hero 13. This post is your updated 2025 guide to how to film skiing with a GoPro like a pro, covering:

• The best GoPro mounts for skiing (and when to use each)
• Hero 13 settings optimized for snow sports
• Favorite GoPro accessories that make filming easier
• A quick-start guide for beginners
• My full GoPro Hero 13 ski filming setup

In this post, I’m sharing my updated approach to filming skiing using the GoPro Hero 13—along with my original video on GoPro ski filming using the GoPro Hero 12, which still holds up for Hero 11 and Hero 13 users. Watch both videos below, then scroll for all the extra tips, links, and context!

Skiing with a GoPro How-To Videos

Watch Part 1: How to Film Skiing with a GoPro (Basics + Mounting Tips)
Great for any GoPro model

Watch Part 2: Updated for GoPro Hero 13 – Mounts, Settings, and What’s New
Best for Hero 13 users and anyone wanting more cinematic ski footage

Why Film Skiing with a GoPro?

GoPros are made for snow. They’re lightweight, waterproof down to 10m without a housing, and built to survive freezing temps, crashes, and powder sprays. With each new generation—especially the Hero 13—you get improved image quality, stabilization, and smart features like Horizon Lock, making it easier than ever to capture buttery-smooth, cinematic ski footage.

But gear is only part of the equation. To get that pro-level POV, you need to pair the right GoPro ski mounts with the best camera settings—and know how to use them in a fast-moving, high-contrast environment like the mountains of Colorado.

GoPro Ski Filming Tips (That Actually Work)

Here’s a quick breakdown of the biggest takeaways from both videos:

1. Use the Right Mounts

• Chest mount: Most immersive angle, especially for tight trees or parks. Not ideal for layer changes.
• Ski Pole/selfie stick: Great for follow-cam or third-person perspective.
• Ski Helmet mount: Easy to use, but can feel less connected to the action due to high angle.
• Magnetic mounts: With Hero 13, these make swaps super easy! Or get a third party mod for your older GoPro to access this handy feature.

2. Hero 13 Settings for Skiing

In my latest video, I walk through updated settings for Hero 13, including:

• Lens modes (Wide vs Linear + Horizon Lock): Choosing this is based on what you’re filming. I use a max lens mod with the widest setting if I want to put on my helmet and be able to reframe for social. If I’m filming someone else, I usually try for horizon lock and a zoomed-in digital lens: try Linear.
• Frame rate & resolution for smooth slow-mo (The higher the frame rate, the greater the scope for slowing down footage to create slow-motion videos.) Filming at 60p allows you to slow the playback by half. Dropping down to 4K allows video at 120p for super slow-motion capabilities. The GoPro Hero13 Black maxes out at 60p at its highest resolution. You should shoot your videos at high resolution for maximum detail.
• Stabilization tweaks: GoPro’s HyperSmooth stabilization feature is essential for reducing camera shake during skiing.
• Horizon Level/Lock: GoPro’s Horizon Lock feature keeps the world level even when the camera moves through 360 degrees. Horizon Leveling keeps the horizon level but only up to a point.
• White Balance: Auto white balance works great most of the time.
• Exposure Compensation: It is advisable to boost exposure compensation on overcast days. I use +1/2 for overcast to partly sunny and +1 for stormy days.
• Color: Natural colour setting is a good choice for video quality.
  

3. Accessories Worth Having

These are the GoPro ski accessories I use:

• GoPro Hero 13 Black
• Max Lens Mod – Get the auto lens version for your Hero 13
• Sticky Helmet Mount
• Magnet Mounts – super handy for Hero 13
• Third Party Magnet Mount Fits Hero 12
• Ski Pole Mount – skip the extra pole
• Ski Clamp Mount – fun mount, but less practical
• Sandmarc Snow Edition Kit
• Sandmarc Pole
• Sandmarc Variable ND Filter
• Fixed ND Filters – handy especially if you get the auto versions for the Hero 13
• Extra Batteries: Cold weather can drain battery life quickly

A few other tips worth noting: Extra short and long thumbscrews can be handy accessories for GoPro cameras. Extra Curved and Flat Adhesive Mounts can be useful for GoPro setups. The GoPro Volta is a handle and power supply in one that supports various GoPro models (ideal for vlogging). GoPro’s enduro batteries are recommended for better cold-weather performance (the new Hero 13 batteries are even better). Moisture can cause fogging inside the GoPro housing, affecting video quality. Anti-fog inserts can help prevent fogging of the GoPro lens in cold conditions.

(These are affiliate links, which means I may earn a commission at no cost to you—thanks for the support!)

Save Money – Get a GoPro Hero 12

While all the marketing and media will tell you to get the latest and greatest GoPro, sometimes you want to save some money and get an older generation. Afterall, the year before, everyone was raving about the new release. Here is a review of the Hero 12 Black if you’re considering it:

Best GoPro Mounts for Skiing

Choosing the right mount makes or breaks your ski footage. Here’s a breakdown of the top GoPro skiing mounts, their pros and cons, and when I recommend using them:

1. Chest Mount

Buy it Here

Why it’s great but not my favorite:
The chest mount offers a grounded, immersive perspective that captures your skis, poles, turns, and the slope ahead. It’s dynamic and stable—ideal for tree skiing or park riding. Chest mounts restrict visibility to a forward view only while skiing.

Best for:

• Powder turns
• Park laps
• Trees and glades
• POV skiing tutorials
• Looking faster since mount is closer to the ground

Tips:

• Angle the camera slightly upward to avoid filming just your skis.
• Tighten the straps well—loose mounts bounce and ruin the shot.
• Combine with Horizon Lock to reduce distortion. A chest mount provides a stable viewpoint and is comfortable for extended periods while skiing but is a pain when you need to do a layer change. Also, you have to get over the look of wearing a harness.

2. Pole Mount / Selfie Stick

Buy it Here

Why it’s great:
A pole or extension stick gives you those cinematic, third-person follow-cam angles—like someone else is filming you. With the right timing, you can get beautiful arcs and body movement. Pole mounts can capture unique angles, but their stability depends on the user’s grip.

Best for:

• Solo skiing footage
• Following a buddy
• Variety in your edit
• Slow-motion turns

Tips:

• Use the Sandmarc Pole Metal Edition for extra reach.
• Get close for dynamic action (don’t be afraid to ski fast!).
• Keep your movements smooth and stable to reduce shake.

3. Helmet Mount (My Go-To POV Angle)

Buy it Here

Why it’s great:
Hands-free and easy to set up, the helmet mount provides a high vantage point that sees the terrain well. However, it can feel a bit detached from the action and can be tricky to get your skis and the horizon in the frame. Helmet mounts offer a first-person view but can cause disorientation due to head movement.

Best for:

• Scenic wide shots
• Skiing in open bowls
• Minimal setups

Tips:

• Use a front helmet mount—not side-mounted—for better symmetry.
• To keep the helmet out of the frame, place the sticky mount on the front of your helmet
• Stabilization is key. Turn on HyperSmooth Boost or Horizon Lock.
• Try slow pans with your head to create movement.

4. Ski Clamp Mount

Buy it Here

Why it’s great:
Provides a unique angle. Shows your experience from the front without a selfie stick. Don’t try sticking a 3M mount to your ski, your GoPro will fall off and it can be hard to find depending on the terrain.

Best for:

• Unique angle

Tips:

• The clamp must be locked down TIGHT
• Put 3M sticky pads down, then clamp to those
• Be aware of how you will find your camera if it falls off

Surfboard mounts can be used on skis for low-angle shots but their adhesion can be unreliable. Wrist mounts allow for versatile filming directions but may limit pole use while skiing.

5. Magnetic Mounts (Hero 13 Only)

Buy it Here

Why it’s great:
The GoPro Hero 13’s new magnetic mounting system makes switching between mounts quick and painless. No more fiddling with thumbscrews while wearing gloves.

Best for:

• Fast transitions between shots
• Mounting on skis or poles temporarily
• Creative new perspectives (boot shots, ski tips, backpack straps)

Tips:

• Test magnets for strength before sending big lines.
• Use lanyards for backup if mounting in sketchy spots.

6. Other mounts to try

I’ve heard that Peak Design Capture with POV Kit allows camera positioning on a backpack strap for hands-free use. My worry is that this would be off-center. Let me know if you’ve tried this.

Best GoPro Settings for Skiing (Hero 13)

The GoPro Hero 13 offers serious image quality, but getting the settings right is key—especially with snow’s extreme highlights and fast motion.

Here’s my go-to Hero 13 skiing setup:

Pro Tip: If you’re filming with bright sun on snow, increase your EV comp to avoid under-exposure. Snow can trick GoPro’s metering into underexposing the highlights. Additionally, it’s essential to keep GoPro batteries warm in cold weather to prevent them from discharging quickly. It is recommended to keep spare batteries warm in an inner pocket.

Lessons Learned After Years of Filming on Snow

Stability > Everything: Even with amazing stabilization, a loose mount ruins your shot. Tighten your straps, test angles before skiing, and double-check your gear at the lift.

Clean Your Lens Often: A snowflake or smear can wreck your entire run. Carry a microfiber cloth or use your glove to give it a quick wipe.

Angle Matters: Frame your shots so viewers can see the slope ahead and some skis/poles for context. Too low = boring. Too high = detached. Better yet, follow your friends so you have a subject. Even if your friends are on snowboards! Planning different camera angles can lead to more engaging skiing videos.

Editing & Mount Tips: GoPro’s Quik app is a user-friendly tool for editing on the go. I also use it to check my mount angle. With magnet mounts, you can set it and forget it when it comes to the mount angle.

Don’t Overfilm: Battery and card space are limited. Pick your runs wisely and shoot intentionally. Capturing time-lapse shots and unique angles can add excitement to skiing videos. Use this to mix it up so you don’t just have hours of the same POV.

Getting Started: GoPro Ski Filming for Beginners

If you’re new to skiing with a GoPro, don’t overcomplicate it. Here’s a quick checklist to get you rolling:

1. Start with a helmet mount for easy, immersive footage
2. Use the pro video mode (with settings above) with 60fps in 4K
3. Turn on Horizon Lock or HyperSmooth
4. Keep your angles wide
5. Review your footage often and adjust your mount position – lock it in once you have it right and use a magnet mount so you don’t have to adjust it.

Don’t forget fresh spare batteries (they’re worth the extra weight) and a dry lens! Keeping spare batteries in an inner pocket can help maintain battery life while skiing.

My GoPro Ski Filming Set-up

Below is my current GoPro set-up for filming skiing.

• GoPro Hero 13 Black
• Max Lens Mod – Get the auto lens version for your Hero 13
• Sticky Helmet Mount
• Magnet Mounts – super handy for Hero 13
• Ski Pole Mount – skip the extra pole
• Ski Clamp Mount – fun mount, but less practical
• Sandmarc Snow Edition Kit
• Sandmarc Pole
• Sandmarc Variable ND Filter
• Fixed ND Filters – handy especially if you get the auto versions for the Hero 13
• Extra Batteries: Cold weather can drain battery life quickly

Final Thoughts: Start Simple, Then Upgrade

You don’t need the newest camera or all the accessories to get started with GoPro ski footage. Learn the basics, dial in your angles, and most importantly, keep filming and reviewing your footage. That’s the fastest way to improve, practice on a few runs, and you’re on your way.

Whether you’re using the Hero 13 or an older GoPro, focus on stable mounts, smart settings, and good storytelling. Mix up your shots, have fun experimenting, and get outside and enjoy the turns.

Have questions about your GoPro ski setup? Drop them in the comments below or on YouTube—I try to respond to every question.

Similar Content on the Blog

Looking for more photography tips? Check out these posts on Photography Basics: What is the Rule of Thirds and ND Filter Beginners Guide. Or these Tips for Travel Photographers: Photography Tips for Mountain Landscapes, Adventure Photographer Gear, Travel Photography Gear

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a photography team based in Evergreen, Colorado. On the blog, we share our favorite gear tips and photography advice.

Download our free guide on how to build a creative business and a life you love or our free money and gear guide for photographers. Don’t hesitate to contact us and let us know how we can help! If we link to a product we love, Amazon links and others are affiliate links, it’s a great way to support our ad-free blog.

In the meantime, remember to…

The post How to Film Skiing with a GoPro: Tips, Settings, and Accessories (Updated for Hero 13) appeared first on .

Plus, I’ll include links to helpful videos and affiliate links to purchase the best 35mm lenses for your needs. The 35mm lens focal length is a favorite for a reason. It’s lightweight, compact, versatile, and great for storytelling. But you do need to know how to use it properly.

Let’s walk through the why and the how of shooting with the 35mm lens.

Why Choose a 35mm Lens?

The 35mm prime lens is one of the most versatile tools in a photographers kit. Here’s why:

• Lightweight and Compact: It’s easy to carry around, making it perfect for travel and long shoots.

• Incredibly Versatile: The semi-wide focal length works well for everything from landscapes to portraits, indoors or outdoors, and in both wide-open and confined spaces.

• Great for Contextual Storytelling: The 35mm strikes a balance between capturing a scene with context and avoiding unflattering distortion. This makes it ideal for environmental portraits and photojournalism.

The 35mm lens truly shines at weddings, where storytelling is key. It allows photographers to include enough of whole scene and the surrounding environment to tell a rich, compelling story.

35mm vs. Other Popular Focal Lengths

35mm vs. 50mm

The choice between a 35mm and 50mm lens often comes down to personal preference photography lenses and shooting conditions. Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Versatility in Small Spaces: The 35mm excels in tight spaces where movement is limited.

• Depth of Field: The 50mm creates a shallower depth of field, while the 35mm offers a wider depth of field for more context.

• Portraits: The 50mm is better for isolating subjects, while the 35mm is ideal for environmental portraits.

• Distortion: The 50mm has less distortion, but the 35mm’s distortion is minimal and manageable.

Check out our in-depth comparison of the 35mm vs. 50mm lens for more details.

35mm vs. 16-35mm Zoom Lens

The 16-35mm zoom lens offers more flexibility with its wider range but the wider lens comes with trade-offs:

• Size and Weight: The 16-35mm is significantly bulkier, which can be inconvenient for travel.

• Wide-Angle Capability: The 16mm end immerses viewers in dramatic landscapes or architectural shots.

• Versatility: While the 16-35mm covers the 35mm focal length, it lacks the low-light performance and compactness of the 35mm prime.

If you’re considering the 16-35mm lens, check out the video below.

35 vs 24 vs 28

Are you looking at the 35 as it lines up fairly close to the 24 or the 28? In this video on the Battle of the Wide Primes I walk through how to choose between these three focal lengths.

Tips for Shooting with a 35mm Lens

1. Get Close to Your Subjects

   • The compact size of the 35mm lens makes it less intimidating for subjects, encouraging natural expressions. By physically moving closer, you can create an intimate, immersive feel in your photos.

2. Minimize Distortion

   • Keep the lens level and your subject away from the edges of the frame to reduce distortion. The 35mm is forgiving, but intentional framing is still crucial.

3. Be Mindful of the Background

   • Since the 35mm captures more of the scene, take care to frame your shots thoughtfully. Use foreground elements to hide distractions or add depth, and adjust your perspective to include or exclude specific elements.

4. Utilize Composition Techniques

   • Use negative space, leading lines, patterns, or repetition to enhance storytelling. The 35mm’s wide field of view makes it perfect for experimenting with creative compositions.

Pros and Cons of the 35mm Lens

Pros:

• Versatile for various photography styles

• Lightweight and travel-friendly

• Excellent in low-light conditions

• Great for storytelling with context

Cons:

• Limited background separation compared to 50mm or 85mm

• Not wide enough for dramatic landscapes or tight architectural spaces

When to Use Other Lenses

• Switch to a 50mm or 85mm for portraits with strong subject separation and shallow depth of field.

• Opt for a 16–35mm zoom when you need ultra-wide perspectives for landscapes or immersive scenes.

Understanding the 35mm Lens – A Deeper Dive

If you need a wide angle lens a little more background, let’s five deeper in the 35mm lens. 35mm focal length.

What is a 35mm Lens?

• A 35mm lens is a type of camera lens with a focal length of 35mm, offering a wide-angle perspective and a natural field of view.

• It’s a popular choice among photographers and videographers due to its versatility and image quality.

Benefits of a 35mm Prime Lens

• Prime lenses offer a fixed focal length, encouraging photographers to think more creatively about framing and composition.

• The 35mm prime lens is a great choice for portrait photography, street photography, and environmental portraits.

• It provides a shallow depth of field and a wide aperture, making it ideal for capturing high-quality images in various lighting conditions.

Prime Lenses vs Zoom Lenses

What about the difference between a 35mm prime and a zoom lens that includes the 25mm focal length?

Understanding the Trade-Offs

• Prime lenses offer exceptional image quality and a wide aperture, but they have a fixed focal length.

• Zoom lenses offer flexibility and convenience, but they may compromise on image quality and aperture.

When to Choose a Zoom Lens

• Zoom lenses are ideal for situations where you need to adapt to changing circumstances, such as wildlife or sports photography.

• They’re also a good choice for beginners who want to experiment with different focal lengths.

35mm Lens Applications

Here are some more thoughts on when you might use a 25mm lens.

Street and Documentary Photography

The 35mm lens is a great choice for street and documentary photography, offering a wide-angle perspective and a natural field of view. It’s ideal for capturing candid moments and telling stories through your images.

Portraits and Close-Up Photography

The 35mm lens is a great choice lens for portrait photography, offering a shallow depth of field and a wide aperture. It’s ideal for capturing high-quality images of your subjects, with a natural and flattering perspective. Portrait photography lenses also include more flattering focal lengths like the 50mm and 85mm where distortion isn’t a concern.

Wedding Photography

The 35mm lens is a popular lens for wedding photographers. The 35mm focal length is great for storytelling and it’s wide enough to work in tight spaces without being so wide that distortion is a big issue.

Choosing the Right 35mm Lens

How do you choose the right 35mm lens for you?

Key Considerations

• Look for a lens with a wide aperture (like f/1.4 or f/2.8) for better low-light performance and a shallower depth of field.

• Consider the lens’s weight, size, and build quality, especially if you plan to use it for extended periods.

• Check the lens’s compatibility with your camera body, whether it’s a full-frame camera, APS-C camera, or Micro Four Thirds camera.

Best 35mm Lenses and Where to Buy

Looking to add a 35mm lens to your kit? Here are some top options for photo or video lenses. Most of these are prime lenses for a full frame camera but I’ll include one of my favorite zooms as well. For those of you shooting with different camera bodies, feel free to reach out if you want my suggestions.

• Sony Options (mirrorless Sony FE Mount):

• Rokinon 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 35mm f/1.4 GM: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 35mm f/1.8: Buy on Amazon

• Samyang 35mm f/1.4: Buy on Amazon

• Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 GM: Buy on Amazon

• Canon Options (Mirrorless RF Mount and DSLR FE Mount):
• Canon RF 35mm f/1.4 (for Mirrorless): Buy on Amazon

• Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L II USM (for DSLR): Buy on Amazon

• Sigma 35mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art (for DSLR): Buy on Amazon

• Nikon Options (Mirrorless Z Mount and DSLR Mount):

• Nikon 35mm f/1.4 Z (for mirrorless): Buy on Amazon

• Nikon 35mm f/1.4 (for DSLR): Buy on Amazon

Final Thoughts

The 35mm lens focal length is a must-have for photographers who value versatility and storytelling. It’s perfect for all photography genres capturing the beauty of a moment while including the surrounding environment. While it’s not ideal for every scenario, it’s often the first lens to pack for its balance of portability and performance.

The 35mm lens is a staple for photographers who value storytelling, versatility, and portability. From weddings to shooting portraits to serious travel photography, this lens can handle it all. While it has limitations, pairing it with complementary lenses like the 50mm, 85mm, or 16-35mm ensures you’re prepared for any scenario.

Whether you’re shooting weddings, travel adventures, or everyday scenes, the 35mm lens is an exceptional tool to elevate your photography. Experiment with its unique qualities, and you’ll discover why it’s a favorite lens among professionals, street photographers, and enthusiasts alike. Ready to level up your photography with the 35mm lens? Check out our YouTube video for real-world examples and don’t forget to subscribe for more practical photography advice.

Similar Content on the Blog

Looking for longer focal lengths for your full-frame cameras. We have content on some of the ideal focal lengths for every scenario. Learn everything you need to know about the 85mm focal length. And check out this 35mm to 50mm comparison.

Everything you need to know about drone photography, a comparison of mirrorless and DSLRs, our best gear for night photography, or our favorite Peak Design backpacks.

• Photography Tips for Mountain Landscapes

• Tips for Outdoor Wedding Photographers

• Photography Portfolio Creation

• Travel Photography Gear

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Interested in more content like this? What else do you want to hear about?

Camera tips, posing tips, or mindset ideas? Let us know.

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a photography team based in Evergreen Colorado. On the blog, we share my favorite gear tips. You can find everything you need to know about drone photography including drone accessories as well as more gear guides such as this ND filter guide.

Be sure to check out how to shoot with the 70-200mm lens or this 35mm to 50mm comparison. Download our free guide on how to build a creative business and a life you love. If we link to a product we love, Amazon links are affiliate links.

Download our free guide on how to build a creative business and a life you love or our free money and gear guide for photographers. Don’t hesitate to contact us and let us know how we can help! If we link to a product we love, Amazon links are affiliate links.

In the meantime, remember to…

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But when I’m freezing my toes off on the side of a mountain during a ski shoot or trying to photograph the most fast-paced chaotic “I’m a super laid-back bride and therefore didn’t plan” wedding, I sometimes can’t change lenses fast enough.

Enter the 24-70. This lens is a versatile powerhouse, in this post I’ll share why. I’ll also compare it to other lenses like the 50mm and 70-200mm, and give you some practical tips for getting the best shots with it.

If you’re lens shopping, here are the links to my top recommendations:

• For the best quality, get the 24-70 f/2.8 G-Master II. Buy on Amazon here.

• For a more budget-friendly option, check out the Sigma 24-70, version 1 or 2. Buy on Amazon here.

Why the 24-70mm Lens?

So, why the 24-70mm lens? Well, this lens is the epitome of versatility. It’s one of those lenses that you can take everywhere and know you’re covered, whether you’re capturing a very wide open landscape or a tight portrait.

What I love most about this lens is its ability to zoom across a wide range of focal lengths—from 24mm, which is wide enough to capture expansive scenes, to 70mm, which is perfect for tighter, more intimate shots. You don’t have to swap lenses, which makes this a great all-in-one lens for travel, events, and even weddings.

It’s a workhorse. The 24-70mm allows you to be ready for anything without constantly adjusting your gear, which is why it’s a go-to lens for many professional and amateur photographers.

My Current Favorite 24-70mm Lens

Check out this recent video on my current favorite 24-70mm lens, the Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN II:

Comparing the 24-70mm Zoom Lens to other Lenses

Now let’s talk about how the 24-70mm compares to some of my other favorites, like the 50mm and the 70-200mm. I think the most real-world question is would I use the 24-70 or a handful of prime lenses instead? Do I want to swap lenses or spin the zoom ring?

50mm Prime Lens VS 24-70mm Zoom Lens

First, the 50mm lens. The 50mm has a great shallow depth of field and is perfect for isolating subjects. However, it’s fixed focal length is limiting if you want more flexibility in a dynamic situation or more variety in your images. The 24-70mm, on the other hand, lets you easily adjust your composition on the fly without having to change lenses. (Ding: pro tip) Beware of zooming to frame. Some people just spin the zoom ring rather than intentionally picking a focal length and intentionally deciding on framing. 

70-200mm Zoom Lens VS 24-70mm Zoom Lens

Then, there’s the 70-200mm lens, which is fantastic for portraits, especially at the longer end. But, as much as I love it, it’s a bit bulky and limiting if you’re in tight spaces. The 24-70mm gives you some of that flexibility with a more manageable size. Plus, it’s a zoom lens that covers both wide and telephoto focal lengths, so you get the best of both worlds.

35/85/50mm Prime Lens Combo VS 24-70mm Zoom Lens

A real world comparison is that I might pick the 24-70mm lens or I might take my 35, 50, and 85 prime lenses. The real deciding factor to me is if I want bokeh and if I’m shooting in low light. If the answer to both of those questions is no, then the 24-70 makes more sense for the ease of not having to change lenses. Otherwise I need a low aperture zoom like the Sony 28-70 f/2.0 which runs $3000 verses the Sigma 24-70 f2.8 which is closer to $900.

Tips for Shooting the 24-70mm Zoom Range

Okay, so now let’s talk about some tips for getting the most out of your 24-70mm lens. These tips will help you with your photography in general but is great for understanding the 24-70 zoom range. Whether you’re considering a new lens or want to shoot better with the one you have, let’s explore the power that that zoom ring gives you.

Just make sure you know the zoom ring from the focus ring. The zoom ring zooms while the focus ring is for using manual focus. It probably goes without saying that you’ll use the zoom ring more than the focus ring!

Tip #1: Use the Zoom Range to Tell a Story

One of the best things about a zoom lens is how you can use different focal lengths to convey different feelings and perspectives. At 24mm, you can show the vastness of a scene, while at 70mm, you can zoom in to highlight a subject or create compression for more dramatic portraits. You might use it at 24mm for an establishing shot or scene-setting shot. Then you’ll get a clean isolated subject shot at 70mm. Finally, you’ll capture some mid-range storytelling at 50mm. 

Tip #2: Be Mindful of Distortion at the Wide End

When you’re shooting at 24mm, you might encounter some distortion, especially when shooting up close. Be mindful of how your subject is framed—avoid getting too close to your subject, especially at the edges of the frame, to prevent them from looking stretched out. And keep your lens level and squared up to the scene for the best results.

Tip #3: Switch to a Wider Aperture for Portraits

The 24-70mm isn’t known for producing extreme bokeh like 50mm or 85mm, but you can still create beautiful background blur by opening up to the f/2.8 aperture (if you’re shooting with a version that has that aperture). The key here is to zoom in a bit and focus on your subject’s eyes. This works especially well when you want that professional, shallow depth of field look. Another tip to maximize bokeh is to get as close to your subject as possible with a background that’s far away from your subject. You’ll get more bokeh at 70mm than 24.

Tip #4: Stabilize for Sharper Shots

The 24-70mm is heavy enough to cause some slight handshake, especially at slower shutter speeds. So, if you’re shooting handheld, try to stabilize yourself by bracing against something or using a wider stance. If your camera or lens has built-in stabilization, make sure it’s enabled.

Tip #5: Use it Like a Prime

Whenever I’m talking about zoom lenses, I always remind you to use them like a prime. Intentionally select the focal length you want to shoot with. Then, move your body into position for effective framing. Standing stationary and just spinning the zoom ring to take pictures of different things won’t elevate your skills the way that making intentional compositions will. This is why we encourage beginners to try a prime lens, the constraints of learning various focal lengths is important to develop your photographic eye.

Tip #6: Don’t forget your composition techniques

Since I’m hounding you to use intentional composition, it’s probably important that you use your composition technique to maximize the effectiveness of your photos. What is the impact you want or expect your photo to have? How do you want it to feel to the viewer? Maybe you’re filling the frame even at a wide focal length or maybe you’re leaving white space even at 70mm.

Tip #7: Don’t forget to switch lenses when the time comes

Don’t get stuck shooting the 24-70 assuming that it’s your all-in-one lens solution. If you’ve only ever owned a mid-range zoom, it’s time to try a prime or a super wide angle or a telephoto lens. A cheap 50mm might be just what you need to mix it up and add some creativity to your shots.

Why I Resisted Shooting with the 24-70

Let’s talk about why I resist shooting with the 24-70. One reason is that when I first started shooting we were on Canon DSLRs and the Canon 24-70 was notoriously terrible. It wasn’t very sharp, it was expensive, it was heavy and slow in low light. Especially when the old Canon DSLRs didn’t have the low-light capabilities of recent cameras.

“Back in the day” which isn’t that long ago with how fast cameras evolve, shooting fast primes was all the rage. They were everything that the 24-70 wasn’t.

As our business grew, camera gear improved, and our needs expanded, we had to let go of old beliefs in order to determine what the best lenses for our needs were TODAY. Am I working hard to change my prime lenses all day when the 24-70 is just as good now? Or do I really appreciate how compact those lenses are?

24-70mm a Game Changer?

Personally, the 24-70 is a game changer for video. When we started shooting more photo/video hybrid work, the flexibility of a zoom lens became more important than how lightweight the lenses are.

If I’m just shooting photos I might shoot a two-camera set-up but that’s less likely with a video set-up where you have a microphone or gimbal or other video accessories. 

So, yes, I still shoot my 35, 50, 85 primes.

But I also shoot the 24-70.

We seem to use the fact that we’re a husband and wife team as an excuse to have more gear but the reality is we have different set-ups for different scenarios that we deal with.

24-70 lenses that I recommend

Looking for a new lens? I’m happy to share my favorite lens options from the 24 70mm f 2.8 to a more budget-friendly option. These are all recommendations for full-frame cameras. If you’re not shooting on a full frame body you’ll want to make sure you get the right lens for your camera.

From Sony, I recommend a couple of purchase options that I’ll share below.

For the best quality, get the 24-70 f/2.8 G-Master II. Buy on Amazon here.

For a more budget-friendly option, check out the Sigma 24-70, version 1 or 2. Buy on Amazon here.

If budget isn’t a concern you can get the low aperture version.

Avoid the 24-70 f/4 from several years back. There are also some 28-70 options that sound good but going from 24 to 28mm is a bit limiting.

For Canon, of course you are a bit more limited if you are using the latest mirrorless RF mount. There is currently only one option, the 24-70 f/2.8.

If you’re on another brand or want a specific lens recommendation, leave a comment below and Marc will get back to you.

Summary of Shooting with the 24-70mm

To sum it up, the 24-70mm is an incredibly versatile lens for any photographer. It’s great for capturing everything from sweeping landscapes to tight, intimate portraits. And while it’s not the absolute best for extreme background blur or ultra-wide shots, it does a little bit of everything, and it does it very well making it a great first lens for beginners or workhorse for professionals.

It’s the kind of lens I’d recommend for anyone looking for an all-around performer. If you’re a wedding photographer, traveler, or event shooter, this lens is one to consider. It’s fast, reliable, and works in almost any scenario. If you prefer lightweight, compact, prime lenses you might end up with the 35/85 combo instead.

If you’re thinking about adding the 24-70mm to your gear collection or just curious about how to make the most of your lens, let me know in the comments. I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Similar Content on the Blog

Looking for more tools to understand your camera? We have a lot of great content on lenses such as how to shoot with the 85mm focal length or this 35mm to 50mm comparison. Find everything you need to know about drone photography, a comparison of mirrorless and DSLRs, our best gear for night photography, or our favorite peak design backpacks.

More Photography Basics

• What is the Rule of Thirds

• ND Filter Beginners Guide

Tips for Travel Photographers

• Photography Tips for Mountain Landscapes

• Adventure Photographer Gear

• Travel Photography Gear

Tips for wedding Photographers:

• Wedding Album Review

• Wedding Settings Guide

• Wedding Photography Tips for Beginners

• Minimalist Wedding Photography Gear

• Tips for Outdoor Wedding Photographers

Interested in more content like this? What else do you want to hear about?

Camera tips, posing tips, or mindset ideas? Let us know.

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a photography team based in Evergreen Colorado. On the blog, we share our favorite gear tips and photography advice.

Download our free guide on how to build a creative business and a life you love or our free money and gear guide for photographers. Don’t hesitate to contact us and let us know how we can help! If we link to a product we love, Amazon links are affiliate links.

In the meantime, remember to…

The post How to shoot with a 24-70mm Lens | The ONLY Lens You Need for EVERY Shot?! appeared first on .

I’ve been using 85mm lenses as a professional photographer for over a decade and they continue to be an important part of my kit. This articles outlines everything you need to know about 85mm lenses.

If you want an advanced optical formula for the best portraits, get an 85mm lens. The build quality on an 85mm f/1.4 lens is hard to beat and the superb combination of background separation and bokeh that it can create will make your images stand out.

While they often don’t come with many advanced features like image stabilization (shake correction), they often have durable design that will last many years of heavy use.

An 85mm lens will excel in low light situations, for shooting events, or for capturing stunning portraits with buttery bokeh. Shoot wide open and you can almost hide anything in a backdrop.

An 85mm lens works great whether you are shooting handheld landscapes or tripod portraits. I’ve taken mine to a variety of harsh environments and it continues to deliver in virtually any application!

Sony A7RV + Samyang 85mm f/1.4

What is an 85mm lens?

Simply put: a lens with an 85mm focal length. Unlike zoom lenses that cover a large focal range, prime lenses like an 85mm are fixed and do not zoom. An 85mm lens will often be much sharper and better in very low light conditions than it’s equivalent zoom lens.

If you prioritize image quality over flexibility get a prime lens. Check my suggestions below for the best models by camera system.

Other lenses that are often available as primes are 35mm and 50mm. Most prime lenses are incredibly sharp which is why most people choose them. Having all three is a versatile combination.

What is the 85mm lens good for?

Sony A7IV + Sony 85mm f/1.8

So you’re thinking of getting an 85mm lens? This is a classic portrait lens and is the perfect focal length for making your subjects look natural and beautiful.

If you’re not already familiar, different lenses render subjects in a variety of ways. Wide angle lenses are great for capturing large scenes but the 85mm focal length is excellent at rendering subjects naturally without distortion.

While an 85mm lens can be used for a variety of subjects from landscapes to action shots, it thrives at making beautiful bokeh (shallow depth of field). Bokeh is often associated with a portrait lens by photographers because it draws the focus to the subject.

If you’re a wedding or portrait photographer, an 85mm lens is essential. Often people get sticker shock when checking the price of fast name brand options but there is an 85mm lens for almost every budget. My suggestions are:

Best 85mm Lenses for Sony Mirrorless (my preferred camera system):

Sony Budget 85mm Lens

Mid Grade Fast Aperture 85mm Lens

Sony High Quality 85mm Lens

Best 85mm Lenses for Canon RF Mirrorless:

Canon Budget 85mm Lens

Canon High Quality 85mm Lens

Best 85mm Lenses for Nikon Z Mirroless:

Nikon Budget 85mm Lens

Nikon High Quality 85mm Lens

Why 85mm is Perfect for Portraits?

Sony A7IV + Sony 85mm f/1.8

Have you ever taken a closeup or portrait photography with a super wide angle lens? Me neither. Use an 85mm lens and your clients will be singing your praises.

An 85mm lens is perfect for professional photographer for portraits because it renders people in their most natural and flattering proportions. Because of the telephoto nature of the 85mm focal length, it creates low distortion images that will make your clients appreciate the look of the images.

Additionally, an 85mm lens is a prime lens. This means it has a fixed focal length and doesn’t zoom. Because of the optical design, it allows for a wider maximum of aperture range (usually f/1.2 to f/1.8) that will allow you to blur the backdrop.

Shooting portraits at f/1.4 on a nice portrait lens creates beautiful out of focus backgrounds or bokeh. This naturally draws the eye to the person and de-emphasizes anything distracting in the background.

Other lenses you could consider for portraits are the 35mm and 50mm but none are as flattering on the face.

What is the best 85mm lens for Sony?

Sony A7III + Sony 85mm f/1.8

Because I use the Sony camera system, I have some advice for the best 85mm lens for e-mount cameras. Lets talk through a few options:

Sony 85mm f/1.8

This is an awesome, affordable, and good quality lens. I’ve personally used it for years. In the following review video I cover this great lens in more detail.

To quickly summarize, this lens produces good quality and incredibly sharp images for a good price (check the price here). It has some color fringing and isn’t as sharp in the corners wide open. The autofocus is quite good. For the price, I highly recommend this lens.

Samyang 85 f/1.4 ii for Sony E-Mount

Check out the review video or read on below to learn why I think the Samyang 85mm f/1.4 is an awesome alternative to the Sony 85mm f/1.8.

To quickly summarize, this is a fantastic lens for the price. The Rokinon version which is identical to the Samyang just branded differently, is also currently available for the same price as the Sony 85mm f/1.8. If you want an 85mm that offers an f/1.4 aperture instead of f/1.8, this is a good option. It is still quite affordable, offers good image quality, and has solid overall performance.

Sony 85mm f/1.4 GM

This is the top of the line Sony 85mm lens and the price reflects that. For around $1800, you can expect the highest image quality and best autofocus. If you are a professional portrait or headshot photographer who doesn’t want to compromise, this is the 85 mm lens for you.

For the Sony E-mount system, the 85mm f/1.4 GM lens is going to give you the best image quality possible. Especially if you are shooting with a high resolution camera like the Sony A7RVSony A1, you should consider getting the best quality lenses you can.

50mm vs 85mm

It can be difficult to decide between 85mm and 50mm when you’re choosing a lens. Both focal lengths can capture beautiful portraits.

My opinion is that the 85mm focal length thrives at capturing closeup portraits that are more headshot style where as the 50mm is better suited to capturing 3/4 length or full length portraits.

I much prefer the rendering of a closeup portrait (think headshots) at 85mm to 50mm. An 85mm can also beautifully render a full length portrait but you will have to back up quite a lot.

If you want a little more bokeh, go with the 85mm, if you want a more flexible lens that can be used in smaller spaces, get the 50mm lens. Because they are so popular and common, 50mm lenses are often cheaper.

Should I get an 85mm f/1.4 or f/1.8 lens?

Sony A7IV + Sony 85mm f/1.8

The simple answer is get whatever lens you can afford.

The f/1.4 lens will give you slightly better bokeh and low light performance but the difference is relatively small. Because the lens body the f/1.4 is often the flagship lens from the manufacturere in that focal length, it will likely be higher quality.

If you want to save some money, go with the f/1.8 version. It may sacrifice image quality but we are talking about a minimal difference that most clients won’t be able to notice.

Should I get an 85mm lens for my APS-C camera?

You might be wondering if an 85mm lens will work on an APS-C camera (smaller sensor than a full frame camera) like the Sony a6000 series of cameras (think Sony a6400, a6700, etc). If you have a DSLR cameras like the Canon 80d, the same principles apply.

Put simply, it will look great. The APS-C sensor size crops in to make the 85 an equivalent of a 127mm lens. It will have the same amount of bokeh and beautiful rendition of portraits but you will have to back up further.

If you are working in an environment with less space, you may consider a 50mm lens instead but you will sacrifice background seperation and bokeh.

85mm Lens Sample Images

Here are some sample images taken with various other mirrorless cameras and dslr cameras with 85mm lenses:

Conclusion

Thanks so much for stopping by our blog. If you have any questions about what 85mm lens to get or anything else, please leave a comment below!

About the Authors

We’re the Bergreens, a photography team based in Evergreen, Colorado. On the blog, we share my favorite gear tips. You can find everything you need to know about drone photography including drone accessories as well as more gear guides such as this ND filter guide.

Be sure to check out how to shoot with the 70-200mm lens or this 35mm to 50mm comparison. Download our free guide on how to build a creative business and a life you love. If we link to a product we love, Amazon links are affiliate links.

The post 85mm Lenses: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on .